Zürich
The Dolder Grand, Zürich, Switzerland
The city of Zurich, a global center for banking and finance, lies at the north end of Lake Zurich in northern Switzerland. The picturesque lanes of the central Altstadt (Old Town), on either side of the Limmat River, reflect its pre-medieval history. Waterfront promenades like the Limmatquai follow the river toward the 17th-century Rathaus. Switzerland’s largest metropolis has also long been a creative hub — it was the birthplace of Dadaism, the sometime residence of James Joyce, and the site of the last building that Le Corbusier designed before his death.
STAY
THE DOLDER GRAND You’ll never forget your first peek of the majestic Dolder Grand. The hotel sits high above the city, surrounded by a thick forest and stately homes, and has an undeniable Disney castle quality. Inside, the design has an artsy irrationality to it, and the vibe changes drastically depending on whether you’re eating at futuristic Saltz, checking in at the Belle Epoque lobby, or walking through the glass-walled Norman Foster–designed wing. The Dolder is renowned for its art collection, which is on display everywhere—through the hallways and around the grounds. There are works by Keith Haring, Andy Warhol, and Salvador Dalí. There is also a spa with a sauna, steam room, and “snow room” (a chamber filled with actual snow, since you’re in the Alps after all). For the full effect, book the Maestro suite: The duplex, inspired by classical music and built into one of the palace turrets, has a full kitchen, grand piano, sauna, library, and a 360-degree terrace. Kurhausstrasse 65, 8032 Zürich; thedoldergrand.com
BAR AU LAC Founded and run by the same family since 1844, Bar au Lac sits directly across from the lake, at the tip of Bahnhofstrasse, next to Hauser & Wirth gallery. It offers a combination of old-world charm and modern convenience. Zurich’s heritage hotel feels more like a luxury residence, albeit one that has welcomed royals and world leaders. The sky-high gym has views over Lake Zurich, and breakfast is served in a gorgeous greenhouse-like space called Pavillon. Guests may also book a charming cabin in the surrounding gardens for a special fondue and raclette menu. 1 Talstrasse, 8001; bauraulac.ch
WIDDER HOTEL The Widder Hotel in Zurich’s Old Town is composed of nine medieval homes that have been renovated into forty-nine marble-heavy, luxuriously eccentric rooms. Eames chairs, Le Corbusier sofas, Baroque frescoes, Bang & Olufsen mod cons, and abundant mahogany are present throughout the Widder. And naturally, no two rooms are the same. There is also a flagstone-floored library, and a bar with red banquettes, jazz music, and an impressive whiskey selection. Rennweg 7, 8001 Zürich; widderhotel.com
LA RÉSERVE EDEN AU LAC A spectacular new hotel conceived by Philippe Starck in the style of an imaginary yacht club, with two buzzy restaurants, overlooking the lake, near outdoor swimming baths dotting the water. Utoquai 45, 8008 Zürich; lareserve-zurich.com
HOTEL ALEX Thalwil – where the Alex is situated – is a 20-minute drive along the western shore of the lake. The beauty of this hotel is not only its waterside location (popular with an all-day dining crowd on warmer days) but the fact it’s serviced by its own motor launch. In contrast to Zurich’s heritage hotels, the Alex is a more boutique affair, a former private clinic that might well pass for a discreet apartment block were it not for its lakeside dining at the Boat House terrace. Seestrasse 182, 8800 Thalwil; alexlakezurich.com
25 HOURS HOTEL Langstrasse is to Zurich what Soho is to London. The long street, plus the area around it, which is also known as Langstrasse – may once have been Zurich’s red-light district, but these days you’ll find glass skyscrapers, a Google outpost, and the trendy 25hours Hotel Zurich Langstrasse. The German designer hotel chain, perhaps best known for the 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin, has since become a hub for the city’s cool crowd. 150 Langstrasse; 25hours-hotels.com/hotels/zuerich/langstrasse
MARKTGASSE HOTEL Located in the Old Town near many historic landmarks, the Marktgasse Hotel is minimalist in its decor and facilities, but there are some tasteful details such as Aesop toiletry products in the bathrooms. Visit the popular breakfast spot Delish Café. Marktgasse 17, 8001 Zürich; marktgassehotel.ch
DINE | DRINK
KRONENHALLE For an initiation in traditional Zuricher fare, as well as the chance to dine among the owners’ collection of 19th- and 20th-century art, the Kronenhalle is the place to eat the city’s namesake sliced sautéed veal alongside politicos and financiers. Make sure you reserve a table in the brasserie where the walls are lined with paintings by Chagall, Picasso, Klee, and other famous artists. A menu signed by Marc Chagall, who called Kronenhalle his home away from home while he was designing the stained-glass windows for Zurich’s Fraumünster church. Have a nightcap next door at the exquisite bar next door filled with Giacometti-designed table lamps, and bottle-green banquettes. 4 Rämistrasse; kronenhalle.ch
CAFE & CONDITOREI 1842 Home-made chocolate and cakes in a century-old Baroque multi-story cafe. Order a hot chocolate and vermicelli pastry. Napfgasse 4, 8001 Zürich; cafe1842.ch
LUMIÈRE A cozy French bistro with large windows. Order the Café de Paris Steak! Widdergasse 5, 8001 Zürich; restaurant-lumiere.ch
BAUR’S Redesigned by the famous interior designer Martin Brudnizki, Baur’s within the famous Baur au Lac hotel features maximalist touches. Talstrasse 1, 8001 Zürich; baurs-zurich.ch
SALTZ Set inside the fairy-tale Dolder Grand hotel, Saltz is one of the best restaurants in the city. The recently renovated interiors – complete with an intricate installation by Swiss artist Rolf Sachs – are undoubtedly eye-catching, but it’s the views of the lake from the terrace that will really take your breath away. Order the Chateaubriand. Its Sunday brunch has become a Zurich institution: an extravagant spread of fresh sushi, smoked fish, platters of the cured meats beloved by the Swiss, pancakes, waffles, and a magnificent dessert display. This bounty is served (weather permitting) on the terrace, high above Lake Zurich. Kurhausstrasse 65, 8032 Zürich; thedoldergrand.com/restaurant-saltz
CONFISERIE SPRÜNGLI Zurich is famous for the Luxemburgerli— rainbow-hued almond meringue and buttercream concoctions found at this enduring confectionery. So-called because these chewy treats were introduced to the Swiss by a young chef from Luxembourg in the 1950s. They’re a lot like miniature French macarons. The beautiful displays at this 175-year-old cafe also feature pastel-ribboned boxes of pralines, cakes, and chocolate. For over 175 years Sprüngli has been offering delectable delicacies. Paradeplatz, Bahnhofstrasse 21, 8001 Zürich; spruengli.ch
MAX CHOCOLATIER A Minimalist-chic shop for the namesake line of handcrafted chocolate bars and confections. Schlüsselgasse 12, 8001 Zürich; maxchocolatier.com
LÄDERACH Läderach is a Swiss chocolate and confectionary manufacturer based in Ennenda. It was founded in 1962 in Glarus by Rudolf Läderach. His patent for the process of manufacturing hollow, ready-made chocolate truffles revolutionized the fine chocolate industry. laderach.com
ZEUGHAUSKELLER Rustic Swiss dishes and draft beers are served in a 15th-century building, with oak beams and historic artillery artifacts. Bahnhofstrasse 28A, 8001 Zürich; zeughauskeller.ch
LA MUÑA Perched on the sixth floor and accessible directly via the glass elevator in the lobby, La Muña overlooks the city from its tree-lined roof terrace, offering a unique 360° view of the historic center, with the lake and the Alps in the distance. Utoquai 45, 8008 Zürich; lareserve-zurich.com
LA FLOR Cocoa beans are now (finally) enjoying the same overanalysis as coffee. Bean bars are as popular in Zurich as espresso bars are in Italy, and the Swiss obsession with quality prevails. La Flor is the brainchild of three local food industry veterans. Single-origin, direct-trade cocoa beans are roasted and passed through a stone grinder before being tempered and poured into molds. The result—wrapped in beautifully minimal navy packaging—is a creamy chocolate bar with complex flavors and at least 70 percent cacao. Uetlibergstrasse 65, 8045 Zürich; laflor.ch
THE ARTISAN Zurich is big on responsibly sourced ingredients and gorgeous urban gardens, with no shortage of places growing some of their own seasonal produce. Nowhere does this better than The Artisan in Wipkingen. In the warmer months, sit outside in the fairy-lit urban garden, where troughs filled with herbs and vegetables heading straight for the kitchen surround chilled-out customers dining on healthy home-cooked food. Owner Luca is there most nights and will happily wax lyrical about sustainability, the city’s food scene, biodynamic wines, and almost anything else Zurich-related once evening service draws to a close. Nordbrücke 4, 8037 Zürich; theartisan.ch
BAUERNSCHÄNKE The interior of Bauernschänke is centuries old, but the food is purely modern. The menu is full of house-made kombuchas and lemonades as well as inventive vegetable dishes. Rindermarkt 24, 8001 Zürich; bauernschaenke.ch
OEPFELCHAMMER Far from the polished mahogany and copper fixture elegance ubiquitous in the city, Oepfelchammer is more like a worn-wood cabin. Guests have been reveling at the tavern since 1802. Rindermarkt 12, 8001 Zürich; oepfelchammer.ch
LA STANZA Start your day like a local, and order an espresso at La Stanza’s marble bar. Plus, it’s served in seconds by deft white-shirt-and-black-tie-wearing baristas. Bleicherweg 10, 8002 Zürich; lastanza.ch
JOHN BAKER Co-owner Jens Jung spent time baking at America’s bread temple Tartine. Enjoy fresh organic bread or a chocolate croissant to go. johnbaker.ch
AUGUST The Widder Hotel gets every last eccentric detail right—and its lively brasserie is no exception. The menu is an ode to Zuricher favorites, like an iteration of mac and cheese (macaroni, ground beef, and apple sauce), local sausages, pâtés, and tartares. Rennweg 7, 8001 Zürich; widderhotel.com/en/eat-drink/boucherie-august
OLD CROW This small, independently owned bar tucked down a small side street in the Old Town has an impressive collection of rare spirits— 1,000 different types of whisky alone and one of the largest collections of Japanese whiskies outside of Japan. 4 Schwanengasse; oldcrow.ch
TALES BAR An eccentric bar filled with antiques and expats. Selnaustrassse 29, 8001 Zürich; tales-bar.ch
DANTE Just a stone’s throw away from Langstrasse, and a favorite amongst Zurich’s young, well-heeled locals – Dante is a proper, late-night bar. 22 Zwinglistrasse 17; dante-zurich.ch
MAISON MINESSE A small, hip spot where the tasting menus are named after songs by Joy Division (for carnivores) and Brigitte Bardot (for vegetarians). Menu highlights include sliced duck with droplets of salty squid ink, succulent veal with lush parsnip purée, and fried brussels sprouts. Hopfenstrasse 2, 8045 Zürich; maisonmanesse.ch
WYSTUBE ISEBÄHNLI An intimate, 27-seat, jewel box with a wine cellar run by Turkish-born chef, Yücel Ersan, and his sister Ebru. Froschaugasse 26, 8001 Zürich; isebaehnli.com
JOSEF Yves Saint Laurent, Nick Cave, and Robert De Niro grace the walls of the candlelit room. Italian-Mediterranean small plates are served from the kitchen. Gasometerstrasse 24, 8005 Zürich; josef.ch
HOTEL RIVINGTON & SONS Freshly prepared cocktails are made with house-infused ingredients at this hip, 1920s American-style bar on the ground floor of the Prime Tower skyscraper. Amid Art Deco mirrors and panels, bartenders in bow ties will send you off to Mexico with a Tres Amigos (tequila, mezcal, agave syrup, China-China, bitters; 20 francs), to the Far East with a Cough Syrup (Japanese whiskey, sage, lavender syrup; 18 francs) and then to your grave with a Death Cube (rye, bourbon, Cognac, falernum, China-China, bitters; 20 francs). Prime Tower, Hardstrasse 201, 8005 Zürich; hotelrivingtonandsons.ch
CLOUDS Take an elevator up to the top of the Prime Tower to Clouds, which serves cocktails and panoramic city views. Maagpl. 5, 8005 Zürich; clouds.ch
ROOFTOP RESTAURANT A chic rooftop restaurant located on Bahnhofstrasse shopping streets with a wrap-around terrace and Asian cuisine. Bahnhofstrasse 74, 8001 Zürich; ooo-zh.ch
ZUNFTHAUS ZUR ZIMMERLEUTE Eat a local meal while sitting in the heart of Zürich old town. Savour mouthwatering cheese fondue, sausages, Rösti and Flammkuchen while you enjoy the scenic views. Limmatquai 40, 8001 Zürich; zunfthaus-zimmerleuten.ch
LINDT HOME OF CHOCOLATE A towering chocolate fountain, museum exhibits on production, hands-on workshops with chocolatiers. Schokoladenplatz 1, Seestrasse 204, 8802 Kilchberg; lindt-home-of-chocolate.com
MARKTHALLE You can assemble lunch with bounty from various stands — sushi counter, cheesemonger, chocolatier, wine dealer, pie shop — or sit down in the lively neo-industrial restaurant. Modified daily, the menu features traditional Swiss ingredients for a 21st-century clientele. Limmatstrasse 231, 8005 Zürich; restaurant-markthalle.ch
LES HALLES
With secondhand bicycles dotted around the walls, mismatched antique tables and chairs, faded gilt mirrors, and local beers and steaming plates of moules frites on the menu, Les Halles couldn’t be more different from the upscale Michelin-starred restaurants in the old town. But the excellent food and relaxed atmosphere has lured in locals from all over the city, and the noise of people chatting in Swiss, German, French, Italian, and English ricochets around the old hall. Pfingstweidstrasse 6, 8005 Zürich; les-halles.ch
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
KUNSTHAUS ZÜRICH The largest art museum in Switzerland, housing artworks dating from the Middle Ages as well as 19th and 20th Century art, which includes French impressionism, Dadaism, Surrealism and most importantly, the most comprehensive collection of Alberto Giacometti found in a museum. Heimpl. 1/5, 8001 Zürich; kunsthaus.ch
ZÜRICH OPERA HOUSE The Zürich Opera House is set in the Sechseläutenplatz, where it has been the home of the Zürich Opera since 1891. It also houses the Bernhard-Theater Zürich and the Zürich Ballet. Sechseläutenpl. 1, 8008 Zürich; opernhaus.ch
LE CORBUSIER HOUSE The maestro’s 1967 Gesamtkunstwerk and final project reopened to the public following a meticulous restoration. It was commissioned by interior designer, art collector, and patron Heidi Weber, and completed in 1967. Höschgasse 8, 8008 Zürich; pavillon-le-corbusier.ch
CABARET VOLTAIRE The birthplace of Dadaism. In this nightclub, a group of writers and artists regularly gathered around the German poet Hugo Ball. It was the place for the intellectual refugees from all over Europe, as well as young Zürich artists who were fed up with what was happening in Europe during the dark years of World War I. Here Hugo Ball read the Dada Manifesto in 1916 and his fellow anti-war, anti-institution artists met to read poems and give musical performances. Now it operates as a cafe, performance center, and shop, Spiegelgasse 1, 8001 Zürich; cabaretvoltaire.ch
HAUSER & WIRTH In the heart of Zurich’s cultural district, Hauser & Wirth Rämistrasse was designed by Annabelle Selldorf. Limmatstrasse 270, 8005 Zürich; hauserwirth.com
GALERIE GMURZYNSKA An art gallery specializing in modern and contemporary art and work by the Russian avant-garde. Paradeplatz 2, 8001 Zürich; gmurzynska.com
SWISS NATIONAL MUSEUM Here, Swiss history comes to life. The museum building itself is evocative of an 18th-century castle. It houses artwork from prehistory through ancient times, to the 20th century. This museum also houses a vast archaeology section. It was recently renovated by the Swiss architecture duo Christ & Gantenbein. Museumstrasse 2, 8001 Zürich; landesmuseum.ch
GROSSMÜNSTER CHURCH Completed circa 1220, the historic Grossmünster church is worth a visit to see both its Romanesque architecture and the 12 stained-glass windows by Sigmar Polke and installed in 2009. Grossmünsterplatz, 8001 Zürich; grossmuenster.ch
KINO XENIX BAR The white, low-slung, cabinlike space looks out on Helvetiaplatz — a large square where a flea market unfolds on Saturday mornings — and is connected to a cinema, Kino Xenix, that shows international indie films, forgotten classics, vintage favorites, and unusual documentaries. Kanzleistrasse 52, 8004 Zürich; xenix.ch
GALERIE FRANCESCA PIA
Owner and director Francesca Pia is famous for uncovering and promoting unknown artists—many of whom have gone on to become important figures in the art world. A number of them are Swiss and her gallery has recently become a hub for young talent from around the country. Located next to Kunsthalle Zurich in Löwenbräu, a former brewery that is now home to Zurich’s lively contemporary art scene, it is the ideal way to kick off an afternoon of gallery hopping. Limmatstrasse 268, 8005 Zürich; francescapia.com/gallery
SHOP
BAHNOFSTRASSE Bahnhofstrasse is Zürich’s main street, and one of the world’s most expensive and exclusive shopping avenues, filled with luxury boutiques.
SCHWARZENBACH KOLONIALWAREN A “colonial goods store” that has been run by the same family since 1864. It’s an excellent place to drop by to pick up high-quality coffee, exotic tea, dried fruit, and more. Münstergasse 19, 8001 Zürich; schwarzenbach.ch
VESTIBULE A multi-brand fashion boutique with French flare, curated by Laurence Antiglio. vestibule.ch
LIMITED STOCK Japanese knives, John Derian porcelain, Korean ceramic vases, Kashmiri pashminas, and Susanne Kaufmann bath oils are among the curated offerings. Owners Ulrich Zickler (an exhibit designer) and Hubert Spörri (a sculptor) choose items that have an individual, handcrafted feel. Spiegelgasse 22, 8001 Zürich; limited-stock.com
NEVER STOP READING Zurich is rich in independent booksellers, many of which have a distinct theme. Never Stop Reading on storied Spiegelgasse—the home of the Dada movement —is dedicated to the visual arts. It’s the kind of design-forward place where you want to settle in for an hour of browsing. Spiegelgasse 18, 8001 Zürich; neverstopreading.com
WALTER Situated along Geroldstrasse, this vintage shop stocks everything from Hermès typewriters to Tolix lockers to venerable metal file cabinets and desks. Geroldstrasse 15, 8005 Zürich; walterwalter.ch
BOGEN 33 Find iconic midcentury European designers like Arne Jacobsen, Mies van der Rohe, and Eero Saarinen. Hohlstrasse 100, 8004 Zürich; bogen33.ch
URS BERGMANN The go-to florist in Zürich. Marktgasse 6, 8001 Zürich; bergmann-florist.ch
ENSOIE enSoie celebrates traditional handcrafting techniques and sustainability, and the store is known for its ceramics, scarves, jewelry, clothing, accessories, and home goods, as well for its kids and baby line. Every design is created in their atelier and turned into high-quality products by small manufacturers. The family business is run by daughters Eleonore, Sophie, and Anna of founder Monique Meier. Strehlgasse 26, 8001 Zürich; ensoie.com
LANDOLT-ARBENZ A chic stationery store. Poststrasse 10, 8001 Zürich; landolt-arbenz.ch
FABRIKAT The home of rare books, prints, pens and stationery. Militärstrasse 76, 8004 Zürich; fabrikat.ch
PETER BICHSEL A traditional fine bookstore. Oberdorfstrasse 10, 8001 Zürich; finebooks.ch
FRAU GEROLDS GARTEN
Housed in a series of converted shipping containers placed around a green lawn, Frau Gerolds Garten began life a few years ago as an affordable place for artists, poets, and designers to meet in a city famed for its outlandish rents. Within a few months, it became a haven for young people working in the creative arts and has been credited with helping spark the Zurich West phenomenon. With graffiti on the walls, food trucks selling Sri Lankan pancakes and Peruvian ceviche, and live music most evenings, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d been transported to Williamsburg or Brixton. Geroldstrasse 23, 8005 Zürich; fraugerold.ch
IDA GUT
Ida Gut, a Swiss designer with an airy atelier in Zurich West, offers Japanese inspired collections — think quirky, elegant, and slightly eccentric designs you would traditionally associate with Comme des Garçons and Rei Kawakubo. Ankerstrasse 112, 8004 Zürich; idagut.ch
SOEDER
Unisex grooming products made to smell like wood fires and mountain air, thick Swiss knitted jumpers, and homemade shoe wax— this wood-paneled lifestyle store embodies the Danish concept of hygge, just further south. Run by handsome Swiss hipsters who come complete with beards and plaid shirts. Ankerstrasse 124, 8004 Zürich; soeder.ch
FASHIONSLAVE
Focusing entirely on black and white, but with a range of well-cut dresses, skirts, trousers, and coats, it’s the ideal shop for anyone who believes black is always the new black. Viaduktstrasse 29, 8005 Zürich; fashionslave.ch
KITCHENER PLUS A concept store devoted (mainly) to the culinary arts. Their stock can help you grow vegetables (with seeds aplenty), serve coffee (in Falcon enamel mugs), shuck oysters (aided by knives from Malle W. Trousseau), wash up afterward (using Triumph & Disaster liquid soap) and dry off (courtesy of tea towels by Hay of Copenhagen). Viaduktstrasse 47, 8005 Zürich; shop.kitchener.ch
WESTFLÜGEL A small bookstore-gallery that stocks art tomes and hosts photo exhibitions. Viaduktstrasse 21, 8005 Zürich; westfluegel.ch
SPA
DOLDER GRAND SPA A perfect morning might look like this: a few rounds of sauna, steam, and chill in the “snow room” (a chamber filled with actual snow, since you’re in the Alps after all), followed by a snooze on a warmed bed of black pebbles. And that would be before we settle in for a superb afternoon facial, which happens in a light-filled room overlooking the forest.
SEEBAD ENGE A floating lakeside resort whose saunas will dissolve your bodily aches and coax the weekend’s toxins to trickle out of your dilated pores. The views are restorative too. As you lie naked — everyone goes naked, though it is not officially required — on the pine boards, you have stunning vistas of the glassy lake and distant snow-capped mountains through glass panels. Afterward, take a bracing cold shower (or dive in the lake) and relax in the panoramic relaxation room, outdoor bar or indoor cafe. Mythenquai 9, 8002 Zürich; seebadenge.ch
DAY | WEEKEND TRIPS
LUCERNE A charming town surrounding Lake Lucerne, known for its medieval architecture. Visit the colorful Altstadt (Old Town) and walk across the covered Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge), built in 1333, which links the Aldstadt to the Reuss River's right bank. Have an alfresco lakeside lunch at the Mandarin Oriental. Pick up sweets at Max Chocolatier. Enjoy traditoinal Swiss fare at Wirthaus Galliker, Old Swiss House, or Rathaus Brauerei. Stay at Hotel Schweizerhof or the Art Deco Hotel Montana.
BÜRGENSTOCK Bürgenstock is a mountain in Switzerland, located along the shore of Lake Lucerne. Stay at the luxurious Burgenstock Resort or the scenic Hotel Villa Honegg in Ennetbürgen, which overlooks the lake and the mountains.
MÜRREN Mürren is a Swiss mountain village at the foot of the Schilthorn peak, accessible only by cable car. Featured in a James Bond film, the Piz Gloria revolving restaurant contains the Bond World 007 exhibit and has views of Mont Blanc. Have a scenic lunch or stay at the Hotel Eiger. Near Mürren is Grindewald and the Lauterbrunnen Valley, with its subterranean, glacial Trümmelbach Falls.
Text: Veronica H. Speck