Bilbao
Guggenheim Museum Bilbao
Bilbao, an industrial port city in northern Spain, is surrounded by green mountains. It’s the de facto capital of Basque Country, with a skyscraper-filled downtown. It’s famed for the Frank Gehry–designed Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, which sparked revitalization when it opened in 1997. The museum houses prominent modern and contemporary works, but it’s the curvy, titanium-clad building that receives the most attention. Here is our guide to Bilbao, Spain.
STAY
MELIA BILBAO Melia Bilbao takes up prime real estate in the center of Bilbao, walking distance from the Guggenheim Museum and the breathtaking Doña Casilda park. Its jewel tone-dipped guest rooms are furnished with modern elements and make for the ideal five-star home base from which to explore all that Basque Country has to offer. But even more impressive than the the hotel’s sculptural interiors is its in-house restaurant, Aizian. Chef José Miguel Olazabalaga’s traditional Basque menu has earned him high praise from foodies and a Michelin star. For those seeking a more chill atmosphere, head to Q lounge for tapas and cocktails. Lehendakari Leizaola 29, Centro; melia.com/en/hotels/spain/bilbao
RADISSON COLLECTION HOTEL The building itself, formerly the headquarters of the Banco Hispano Americano, a striking mid-century landmark. An award-winning chef, Eneko Atxa, oversees the hotel’s restaurant, which specializes in updated Basque cuisine and local wines. And the restaurant opens onto an eye-catching rooftop terrace with a stylish open-air bar, vertical gardens, and umbrella-shaded patio tables with views over the city and the surrounding hills. Gran Vía de Don Diego López de Haro, 4; radissonhotels.com
HOTEL CARLTON This sophisticated hotel in a refined building has a cocktail bar, and a polished restaurant offering traditional Basque cuisine, as well as a city-view terrace. Federico Moyúa Plaza, 2; hotelcarlton.es
THE ARTIST GRAND HOTEL This contemporary, art-filled hotel has two cafes and a gourmet restaurant. There's a rooftop terrace with views of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. A chic spa offers beauty/massage treatments, while a gym includes a sauna. Mazarredo Zumarkalea, 61; hoteltheartist.com
DINE | DRINK
ZAPIRAIN A restaurant with a long history that has finally arrived in Bilbao after half a century and more in Lekeitio! Here, high-quality traditional cuisine is to the fore, specialising in fish and seafood in particular, which the team prepares with as little fuss as possible in order to respect its true essence (we thoroughly enjoyed the grilled white prawns and the hake “kokotxas”). Meat does feature, however, including a mouthwatering T-bone steak. For dessert, the home-made tarts are a must! Juan Ajuriaguerra 22; zapirain.es
MINA Directly across from Mercado de la Ribera, on the other side of the river, is one of Bilbao’s Michelin-starred restaurants. Mina serves a variety of tasting menus, and the focus is put on fresh, local ingredients ranging from spider crab topped with passion-fruit emulsion to bone-marrow cake. In fact, much of the fish is bought the same day from Mercado de la Ribera across the river. Muelle Marzana, Bilbao; Restaurantemina.es
AZURMENDI Take a roughly 15-minute drive from the center of Bilbao and you’ll end up in the plush green countryside at Azurmendi, a fully sustainable farm-to-table restaurant which boasts three Michelin stars and was recently named one of the best restaurants in the world. The meal—which comes in the form of a tasting menu—is as much about performance is it is about the food. When you arrive you’ll be walked through the glass kitchen and greenhouse, where offerings like tomato jelly, asparagus-topped edible cotton, and hazelnuts covered in gold leaf are available. The main course menu ranges from hen eggs cooked inside out and truffled to pineapple with cardamom and celery. Corredor del Txorierri Salida 25, Larrabetzu, Bizkaia; azurmendi.restaurant
OLA MARTIN BERASATEGUI Located alongside the river, inside the Tayko hotel. Signature dishes include the “kokotxas” and slices of cod with a red prawn Vizcaína sauce. De la Ribera 13; taykohotels.com/bilbao/gastronomia/ola-restaurante/
AL MARGEN This relaxed and informal restaurant alongside the estuary next to San Antón bridge features traditional cuisine that is technically accomplished yet fun and always built around the freshest seasonal produce. Muelle Urazurrutia 2; restaurantealmargen.com
LOS FUEROS This typical Bilbao “botxero” — a classic feature of Bilbao’s restaurant scene, opened its doors in 1878 under the name Bar Colón. Don’t leave without trying the legendary grilled prawns! De los Fueros 6; losfueros.com
BASQUE ENEKO In this modern restaurant that stands out for its terrace (on the 7th floor of the Radisson Collection Hotel), chef Eneko Atxa conjures up cuisine that combines traditional Basque cooking and the occasional contemporary touch. Make sure you order the egg yolk with “estofado de trigo”. Gran Vía Don Diego López de Haro 4; enekoatxaseville.com
LASAI Lasai takes its name from the Basque word for “calm” or “tranquillity”. This discreet restaurant in a narrow street in the centre of the city, just a few metres from the river, invites guests to discover its modern take on traditional cuisine. Príncipe 4, Bilbao; https://lasaibilbao.com/
AITOR RAULEAGA A restaurant with a classic-contemporary feel, situated next to the Hotel Abando with Bilbao’s Palacio de Justicia on the opposite side of the street. Here, the chef and his team conjure up traditional Basque cuisine with a focus on seasonal ingredients. Highlights include daily specials and delicious signature stews, with a different stew featuring every day (these are referred to as “La Cuchara de Aitor”). Colón de Larreátegui 9; restauranterauleaga.com
KUMA A restaurant where you can enjoy a Japanese dining experience to the full thanks to chef Daniel Lomana’s frequent visits to Japan to train and to develop his technique further, skills that can you enjoy at close quarters by taking a seat at the bar or at one of its adjoining tables. His focus is on Japanese fusion cuisine that includes interesting à la carte dishes (hamachi sashimi, amberjack with KUMA ceviche, sea bass nigiri, fried aubergines with a white sesame vinaigrette etc). Don’t leave without trying one of KUMA’s mochi rice cakes! Ercilla 8, Bilbao; restaurantekuma.com
YANDIOLA Yandiola is located inside the Askuna Zentroa civic and cultural centre, where the interior design and meticulous lighting come as a pleasant surprise. The updated take on traditional cuisine on offer here includes the à la carte plus two tasting menus. Plaza Arriquibar 4; yandiola.com
LA DESPENSA DEL ETXANOBE Situated next to the Etxanobe Atelier, with which it shares its kitchen facilities, this restaurant is much more informal in style, with exposed brick walls and an original iron structure that helps to distribute light. The cuisine here is traditional with a modern touch.We recommend asking for one of the dishes off the menu – if it’s available, don’t miss the delicious cod cheeks in a traditional Basque fish stew. Calle Juan Ajuriaguerra Kalea, 8; etxanobe.com
EXTANOBE ATELIER A restaurant with an unusual setting in a former glass factory in the centre of Bilbao which has managed to retain a few vestiges from its past. Bilbao-born chef Fernando Canales is at the helm of this culinary project where fish dishes taking centre stage. Juan de Ajuriaguerra 8; etxanobe.com
KIMTXU A somewhat surprising Asian “taberna” in Bilbao with an informal atmosphere to make you feel at home and open your mind and tastebuds to new, interesting flavours from around the world. Owner-chef Iván Abril rethinks oriental cooking through techniques acquired in London and Hong Kong, but always using superb Basque products and varying the dishes he offers in line with seasonal ingredients. We particularly enjoyed the Banh-mi. Henao 17; kimtxu.com
LAS LIAS BILBAO Tucked away in the lively and bustling city of Bilbao and boasting a large on-street terrace, this gastro-bar is the perfect setting in which to enjoy the true culinary flavour of the Basque Country. Take your pick between an extensive array of tapas and “raciones” and a small menu, but whatever you choose, make sure you try the crab-filled scallops, and the entrecôte of aged Frisona Gallega beef. Juan Ajuriaguerra Kalea 14; lasliasbilbao.com
ODOLOSTE A restaurant located just a few steps from the Guggenheim Bilbao with a meticulous contemporary ambience and a menu where the pig takes centre stage. The cooking here, an updated take on Galician cuisine, is completely focused around pork and pork-based dishes. Try the tasting of Euskal-Herria cheeses as an option. Alameda Recalde 11; odoloste.com
TXIRENE The name of this restaurant, which takes its name from a term specific to Bilbao that describes a person who is something of a joker, is one of those place that locals like to keep to themselves! It is home to a busy “pintxos” bar, hidden behind which is a meticulous, contemporary dining room offering an extensive array of traditional-style cuisine. Try the suckling lamb chops. Poza Lizentziatuaren 26; txirene.com
ISLARES This minimalist restaurant is located opposite the city’s Guggenheim Museum where it exudes plenty of culinary passion in its quest to showcase the traditional cuisine of Northern Spain. Here, under the baton of chef Julen Bergantiños, choose between two unusual menus that change completely with every season (for example, wild mushrooms take centre stage in the autumn, followed by game in the winter), based around seasonal ingredients sourced from small-scale producers. Mazarredo Zumarkalea, 65bis; islares.restaurant
NERUA If you find the idea of eating inside a museum tempting, there’s no better place than the Guggenheim Bilbao, where the unique design of the building reverberates throughout your experience here. Nerua, which takes its name from the Latin for the River Nervión, situated at the point where the river’s freshwater meets the saltwater of the Atlantic, recreates a similar fusion in its own philosophy thanks to chef Josean Alija’s quest to revive traditional Basque flavours from an innovative perspective. Seasonal dishes include sea bass with a saffron jus and acidified wild mushrooms, and the spectacular Iberian pancetta with pickled vegetables. Avenida de Abandoibarra 2; neruaguggenheimbilbao.com
ZARATE The history of Zarate is that of a man passionate about fishing and the sea, to the point where his cooking is described as “tidal-inspired cuisine”. The strong guiding principles of the restaurant are based around his exceptional knowledge of fish – Cantabria’s finest raw ingredient that he sources daily from the ports of Lekeitio and Ondarroa. Dishes include cod tripe with pig’s trotters “a la vizcaína” and “maritime” chorizo, ajoblanco and spider crab royale and, for dessert, tuna toffee macaroon. Licenciado Poza 65; zarate.restaurant
SAN MAMES JATETXEA A restaurant with a unique location inside the Los Leones football stadium, which makes it the perfect way to end a visit to the Tour San Mamés and its beautiful museum as you can enjoy your meal overlooking the pitch. The cuisine, overseen by renowned chef Fernando Canales, focuses on traditional Basque recipes. On match days, the restaurant also serves guests in the VIP section of the stadium. Rafael Moreno Pitxitxi; sanmamesjatetxea.com
WAMAN Peruvian cooking and Basque ingredients are to the fore in this restaurant. Dishes you won’t want to miss thanks to their flavour and stylish presentation include the octopus with olives and a dessert entitled Chocolate and Lucuma (a fruit commonly found in the Andes). Avenida Madariaga 5; wamanrestaurante.com
LA BARRACA This restaurant has not one, but two locations in Bilbao. It serves more than 12 different types of paella, ranging from stewed oxtail to rabbit with wild mushrooms to meat, seafood, lobster, vegetable, and mixed paella—but the seafood versions with shrimp, and mussels stand out as being local favorites. García Salazar Kalea, 12; restauranteslabarracabilbao.com
GURE TOKI Contemporary Basque cooking & tapas, plus regional wines, in a modern, industrial-chic setup. Pl. Nueva, 12, Ibaiondo; guretoki.com
PORRUE Chic spot for creative Basque fare using local seasonal produce, with tasting menus & wine pairings. Alameda de Recalde, 4, BJ, Abando; porrue.com
CAFE IRUNA Regional food & grilled meats served in a long-standing locale that has decorative tiles & murals. Colón de Larreátegui K., 13; cafeirunabilbao.net
MARTINA DE ZURICALDAY The oldest artisan patisserie in the Basque Country, with over 200 years of history. Founded in 1830 on Ronda Street in Old Town. martinazuricalday.com
SANTA MARIA A typical, traditional pintxo bar. Calle Santa Maria 18
LOS JARDINES A cozy bar for a glass of wine. Novia Salcedo 9
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
MUSEO GUGGENHEIM BILBAO A must-visit for any art or design enthusiast, the Guggenheim is full of world-class pieces on permanent display. A massive, flowering Jeff Koons dog sculpture sitting outside the building generates many photo ops. On the other side of the building near the water sits one of Louise Bourgeois's giant spider sculptures. Housed inside the museum is Richard Serra’s set of sculptures, dubbed The Matter of Time. Abandoibarra Etorb., 2, Abando; guggenheim-bilba
MUSEO DE BELLAS ARTES DE BILBAO The Bilbao Fine Arts Museum is located entirely inside the city's Doña Casilda Iturrizar park. It is the second largest and most visited museum in the Basque Country, after the Bilbao Guggenheim Museum and one of the richest Spanish museums outside Madrid. Museo Plaza, 2, Abando; bilbaomuseoa.eus
BASILICA DE NUESTRA SENORA DE BEGONA The Basilica of Begoña is a basilica in Bilbao, in Spain, dedicated to the patron saint of Biscay, the Virgin Begoña. The current parish priest is Jesús Francisco de Garitaonandia. Begoñako Andra Maria Kalea, 38; begona.org
TEATRO ARRIAGA One of the most majestic buildings in all of Bilbao. Inspired by the Paris Opera, it’s dedicated to local musician Juan Crisóstomo de Arriaga, generally known as the ‘Spanish Mozart’. The theatre is known for having suffered various mishaps (it burnt down in 1914 and flooded in 1983) but, despite all that, it still boasts one of the city’s biggest arts and culture programmes. If you want to unmask all the quirks and secrets of Arriaga’s 125-year history, the theatre’s guided tours are the way to go. Arriaga Plaza, 1, Ibaiondo; teatroarriaga.eus
MERCADO DE LA RIBERA
At 2.47 acres, Mercado de la Ribera is a massive paradise of fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, mushrooms, cheese, sausages, cured meats, and fresh meats and game in season. The space is located next to the river, in the Casco Viejo neighborhood, which is Bilbao’s oldest, medieval part of town. Erribera Kalea, s/n, Ibaiondo; bilbaozerbitzuak.bilbao.eus/inicio/mercado-de-la-ribera
SANTIAGO CATHEDRAL One of the best things about Bilbao is its mix of old and new architecture. The Santiago Cathedral, located in the center of the city, is considered Bilbao’s oldest building. It was constructed during the 15th century. Visit for the chic gothic architecture, arched ceilings and doorways, and towering spires, before exploring the rest of the tiny streets of Casco Viejo. Done Jakue Plazatxoa, 1, Ibaiondo; catedralbilbao.com
SHOP
CHOSES DE FEMME Bilbao is not particularly known for its fashion scene, but there are chic boutiques to be found, hidden on side streets. Choses de Femme sells a variety of high-end shoes, bags, and accessories from labels like Miu Miu, Givenchy, Stella McCartney, and more. Consider the pieces stocked here a mix of minimalist and wearable. Calle Estrauntza, 5; chosesdefemme.com
VERITAS Located in the modern part of the city, the owners behind Veritas named the store after the Latin word for truth. The shop has been around for more than forty years and offers a selection of luxury brands such as Aquazzura, Blumarine, Etro, Giambattista Valli, and Ralph Lauren. Glass cases filled with lush silk scarves topped with fashion tomes attract onlookers from the quiet streets—it’s an unexpected gem in a small city. Calle de Rodríguez Arias, 46; veritas-boutique.com
PERSUADE Art, the avant-garde and space are the three pillars that define Persuade Bilbao. A multi-disciplinary store whose products range from the collections. Colón de Larreátegui K., 10, Abando; persuade.es
DAY TRIPS
SAN JUAN DE GAZTELUGATXE On a bright day the views of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe are unbelievable. Hop in a car and head roughly 50 minutes north of Bilbao to see the full range of Basque country’s unique geography here. The narrow, twisting footpath leads to a coastal island, topped by an ancient church reportedly dating back to the 10th century. The mix of rugged land, sea, sun, and mountains are best viewed while on the footpath leading up to the church. A small chapel on an island, accessible only by a bridge, about a 45-50 minute drive from Bilbao. Gaztelugatxe might be best known to some for its role as Dragonstone – home of Daenerys Targaryen – in Game of Thrones. For everyone else, it’s still the Basque Country’s crown jewel: an absolute must if you’ve got time for a mini day trip. A tiny island linked to the cliffs by a narrow stone bridge, the chapel at the top is only accessible via 241 stairs. Once you’ve made it to the top, ring the bell three times and make a wish. Trust us; it is worth the effort.
MARQUES DE RISCAL Located an hour away from Bilbao in Rioja Alavesa lies this renowned winery with expansive vineyards, a restaurant, and modernist hotel designed by Frank Gehry In contrast, their oldest part is a cellar built in 1860 that houses an extensive collection of over 130,000 bottles, some of which date all the way back to the cellar’s inception. C. Torrea Kalea, 1; marriott.com/en-us/hotels/biolc-hotel-marques-de-riscal