Cartagena
Slim Aarons, 1957
Cartagena is a port city on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. By the sea is the walled Old Town, founded in the 16th century, with squares, cobblestone streets and colorful colonial buildings. With a tropical climate, the city is also a popular beach destination. Reachable by boat are Isla de Barú, with white-sand beaches and palm trees, and the Islas del Rosario, known for their coral reefs. Here is our guide to Cartagena, Colombia.
STAY
CASA SAN AGUSTÍN Coral stone walls and 300-year-old frescoes add to the charm of this 30-room hotel, but it’s the courtyard pool built beneath the city’s original aqueduct that is the star. Book the rooftop Suite Del Virrey, with its private plunge pool and view of the old town. Alma is a fine dining restaurant in the courtyard. Centro historico, Cl. de la Universidad #carrera 6, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; hotelcasasanagustin.com
SANTA CLARA Located in Cartagena’s old town, near the San Felipe de Barajas Castle and the San Pedro Claver Church and Convent, the Sofitel Legend Santa Clara Cartagena was once a 17th-century convent. The hotel’s presidential suite was designed by Lina Botero, daughter of the famed Colombian artist. Calle Del Torno #39-29, San Diego, Cartagena de Indias, Cartagena, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; sofitel.accor.com
HOTEL CASA LOLA Casa Lola is located in the alternative Getsemani neighborhood complete with a rooftop bar and downstairs lounge. Calle del Guerrero 29-108, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; casalola.com
HOTEL CHARLESTON SANTA TERESA Overlooking the Caribbean Sea, this palatial, colonial-style hotel has an opulent restaurant, a street-level cafe, and a terrace eatery with sea views. Cra. 3 #31-23, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; hotelcharlestonsantateresa.com
CASA DEL ARZOBISPADO Located in the Old Town, this boutique hotel has a pool in the courtyard as well as a private rooftop. The attached restaurant, Epoca espresso bar, owned by the hotel owner's brother, is also the best place to get your morning coffee (and hotcakes)! Cra. 5 #34-52, Centro Historico, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; hotelcasadelarzobispado.com
CASA PESTAGUA An 11-room boutique hotel in a former colonial palace, which once belonged to the Count of Pestagua in the seventeenth century, a rich and powerful aristocrat who gave his name to this mansion with sumptuous colonial architecture. Centro histórico, Calle Santo Domingo, Cra. 3 #33-63, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena; casapestagua.com
TOWNHOUSE A boutique hotel with a great rooftop bar and café. Cra. 7 #36-88, San Diego, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; townhousecartagena.com
FENIX A beach club, hotel, and restaurant located on Tierra Bomba Island, a 10-minute boat ride away from Cartagena. Fenix Beach, Tierra Bomba, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; fenix.co
DINE | DRINK
LA VITROLA A must visit for a scenic (and scene-y) dinner in a 400-year-old colonial home converted to a restaurant. Order the ropa vieja and a mojito and enjoy the live Cuban music.
LA CEVICHERIA Anthony Bourdain touted this tiny cevicheria, which serves fish, octopus, and shrimp varieties. Cra. 2 #33-66, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; lavitrola.precompro.com
MOVICH HOTEL The perfect rooftop bar in the Old City to watch the sunset before beginning your evening. Centro Histórico, Calle de Vélez Danies, No. 4 – 39, Cartagena de Indias, Bolívar; movichhotels.com/es/hotel-movichcartagena-en-cartagena
MARIA BONITA A Mexican hideaway in the hip Getsemani neighborhood, specializing in tacos. Getsemani, Cartagena, Cartagena Province
OH LA LA A A French chef offers healthy options including freshly baked bread, ceviche, chicken in coconut milk, and Colombian cheese and yam soup. The restaurant also offers cooking classes for those looking to learn even more about the region's culinary traditions. Cl. 25 #9A-26 LC 1, Getsemaní, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; ohlalabistro.com
LA PALETTERIA A popsicle shop that offers flavors ranging from maracuja and mora roja to salted caramel and tres leches. Some favorites are the “Arequipe,” a Colombian version of Dulce de Leche, and “Lulo,” a sour, green Colombian fruit. Cl. 35 #03-86 local 2, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar
LA ESQUINA DEL PAN DE BONO A local bakery that serves delicious Colombian cheese bread, dubbed pan de bonos. If you are lucky, you can get one right out of the oven. Try the Pan de Yucca as well! Calle San Agustin #35 - 78, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Bolívar, Colombia
CAFE HAVANA This crowded bar has a live band and is the spot for salsa dancing. Cra. 10 #ESQUINA, Getsemaní, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar
QUIEBRA CANTO A salsa bar right outside the walls of the Old City, and the best place to go to begin a night out. Ask for Reina, she will show you some moves. PASAJE PORTO Frente al patio Banderas del CENTRO DE CONVENCIONES, Cra. 8b #25-30, Getsemaní, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; quiebracanto.com
ALMA The restaurant in the Casa San Augustin hotel is set in the courtyard, serving traditional Colombian Caribbean cuisine, and perfect for a group or an intimate date. Cl. 36, centro historico, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; almacolombia.com
EPOCA An artisanal coffee bar known for its ritual-like filtering techniques (that amplify the intensity of the flavors) from the mountains of Tolima, Quindío, Santander, and Cundinamarca. Calle de Arzopispado, Cra. 5 #34-52, Centro Historico, Cartagena de Indias, Cartagena, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar, Colombia
DEMENTE A bar and tapas restaurant that retains the walls from the 18th-century ruins from which it was built. The pintxos and pizza made in its wood-fired oven are very good, but even better is the beer garden in which you can sip on local brews in Getsemani's most lively plaza while listening to live music. Cra. 10 #29-29, Getsemaní, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar, Colombia
EL BARON Considered one of the best cocktail bars in the city. Located in the Plaza of San Pedro Clave, El Baron infuses its own liquors and makes its own syrups. Carrera 4, Cl. San Pedro Claver #31-7, Cartagena de Indias, Bolívar; elbaron.co
LA COCINA DE PEPINA A small neighborhood gem in Getsemani. Cl. 25 #9a-06 local 2, Getsemaní, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar
JUAN DEL MAR A popular spot with the locals with outdoor dining and live music. Try the carbonara pizza! Plaza de San Diego 8-12, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; juandelmar.com/en/inicio-english
REPOSTERIA ROSITA DE BENEDETTI Rosita has been around for over 50 years, and she has small shops around the city including the Old Town in front of the old wall near Plaza del Tejadillo. rositadebenedetti.com
ABACO LIBROS Y CAFE A coffee shop meets bookstore. Cl. 36 #3-86, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena; abacolibros.com
DONDE FIDEL A salsa bar for true salsa lovers, only open during the day as it closes at midnight. The best time to go is between 7pm and 10pm. Portal de los Dulces, Cra. 4, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena
LA MULATA
A tiny, casual lunch spot for Colombians and tourists alike. gg 4Cl. del, Cl. del Quero #9 58, San Diego, Cartagena de Indi4as, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena
EL PESCADOR DE COLORES A beach club and restaurant located 20 minutes away by boat. Go for lunch, cocktails, music and sunbathing. Carrera 2 # 13 - 121, Vía a Barú, Cartagena de Indias, Bolívar
LA MOVIDA A locals only tapas bar and salsa club. Cl. 31 #3-37, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; lamovida.co
PASTELERIA MILA A traditional bakery and cake shop with coffee. Calle de la iglesia #35-76; mila.com.co
ALQUÍMICO A trendy bar with a rooftop terrace serving inventive cocktails, sandwiches, seafood, and meat plates. Cl. del Colegio ###34-24, C; alquimico.com
CUZCO COCINA PERUANA A Peruvian restaurant. Order the grilled octopus, ceviche, and Peruvian risotto. Calle Santo Domingo #33-48; cartagena.restaurantecuzco.com
LA CASA DE SOCORRO A Caribbean restaurant in Getsemani. Calle Larga, No. 8B-11
BAR TU CANDELA Famous for its beautiful arches, this two storey bar with its stunning interior becomes THE place to be around 1am, when most of the other establishments close. ocated in the "Portal de los Dulces" of Cartagena de Indias with a beautiful view of the old city. Centro Portal de los Dulces Plaza de los Coches, Cra. 7 ##32-25
CELELE One of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants, this intimate restaurant serves a delightful salad made entirely of flowers - not to be missed. Calle del Espíritu Santo, Cra. 10c #29-200, Getsemaní; celelerestaurante.com
LA UNICA The same chain of restaurants as Mexico City with a Cartagena location. Cra. 8 #38-47, San Diego, Cartagena de Indias; launica.mx
CARMEN Fashionable restaurant featuring sustainable dishes & creative cocktails, plus an ample wine list. Calle 38 # 8-19, Calle del Santísimo, Provincia de Cartagena; carmencartagena.com/
RESTAURANT DONJUAN Consistently considered Cartagena's best restaurant for its quality ingredients, flavoursome plates and fresh, classic ambience. Av Carlos Escallon 34-01, Centro histórico. Al lado de la torre del reloj, Provincia de Cartagena; restaurantedonjuan.co
ARTS | CULTURE
MUSEO DEL ORO ZENÚ Cartagena’s gold museum has 55,000 artifacts including Balsa Muisca, a pre-Colombian gold votive sometimes called the El Dorado raft. It was found by three farmers in a cave in 1969 but is believed to date from between 600 and 1600 AD - the workmanship is exquisite. Parque o Plaza, Cra 4, de Bolívar #33-26, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; banrepcultural.org/cartagena/museo-del-oro-zenu
SHOP
ST. DOM Cartagena's concept store spotlights local talents including dresses by Johanna Ortiz, embroidered woven bags from Palma Canaria, and rows of fiesta-ready tasselled and embellished earrings from Mercedes Salazar. Cra. 3 #33 70, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar, Colombia; stdom.co
SILVIA TCHERASSI The Colombian fashion designer’s boutique is filled with colorful dresses and prints. Plaza Santa Teresa, Carrera 3 N ° 31-11; silviatcherassi.com/co/es/tiendas/cartagena
CASA CHIQUI A treasure trove and unique shopping experience, which gives a glimpse into the private interiors of Cartagena. It’s really an extension of the founder Cloclo Echavarria’s famed house, as everything in it can be found in her home in some version. It started because she would travel around the world, from Bali to India to Mexico, buying things for her houses, and eventually collected more than she could use. Calle de la Universidad No. 36-127, Cartagena, Colombia; casachiqui.com
L.A. CANO A famous heritage jewelry brand with a beautiful shop in the Old City where you can pick up their pre-Columbian inspired designs. Calle de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria y o calle 35, esquina con, Cl. de la Iglesia #3-65, Cartagena de Indias, Bolívar; canojewelry.com
NH GALERIA A contemporary and modern art gallery. Cra. 2 #33-36, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; nhgaleria.com
ARTESENIAS DE COLOMBIA A shop promoting Colombian artisans and handicrafts. Cra. 5 #34-49, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar, Colombia
LOTO DEL SUR From the outside, this beauty store looks like an old French pharmacy with cloche bell jars covering a selection of candles and a glass display of blocks of soaps. Everything, from the bath salts and scrubs to lip balms and creams, smells delicious and is plant-based and natural. Cra. 5 #34 - 37, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar, Colombia; lotodelsur.com
DANTE An Italian stationery store. Paseo Alfonso XIII, nº 3; dantecartagena.es
MAR A MAR A women’s resortwear and bathing suit boutique with unique, colorful prints. Centro Histórico, Cl. de Don Sancho #36-08, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar, Colombia; maramarcolombia.com
AGUA BENDITA Founded by Medellin-based designers Mariana Hinestroza and Catalina Álvarez after an inspiring summer holiday in Cartagena. Agua Bendita is known for their beautiful patterns and prints and high-quality dresses, bathing suits, sets, and swimsuits. aguabendita.com.co
MAYGEL CORONEL Born in Cartagena, and made in Colombia, Maygel Coronel's swim and beachwear is designed to accentuate and enhance the body. Cl. 35 #2-73, El Centro, Cartagena de Indias, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar; maygelcoronel.com
DAY | WEEKEND TRIPS
ISLA BARÚ Charter a boat and head 30 minutes outside of Cartagena to visit the beaches of Baru, as well as the little islands of Rosario. Visit Blue Apple Beach Club or Hotel Playa Manglares.
PROVIDENCIA Take a 20 seat seaplane to an island that feels like it is stuck in time. Stay at Deep Blue Hotel and don't miss the cocktails and bonfires at Roland's Roots Bar.
ISLA ROSARIO The Rosario islands, which are a little further away from the city than Baru, have turquoise water. Stay at Hotel Coralina Island or Hotel San Pedro De Majagua spend your day snorkeling above the nearby reefs.
VOLCAN DE LODO Volcán de Lodo El Totumo is an active mud volcano located near sea level, and a local tourist destination, popular for its alleged healing mud bath.
SANTA MARTA Not exactly a day trip, but perfect for the weekend. Approximatley 4 hours away by car, Santa Marta is home to beautiful beaches and the scenic Tayrona National Park. Hike to the 3 beaches within the park and enjoy views of some of the highest mountain peaks to next to an ocean. In the city, don’t miss a memorable meal at Guasimo Restaurante, Casa Magdalena, and Agua de Rio.
BARANQUILLA Shakira’s hometown! Also home to the Silvia Tcherassi flagship boutique. Stay at the Hotel Del Prado, and dine at La Cueva or Mahalo.