Istanbul
Istanbul straddles Europe and Asia across the Bosphorus Strait. Its Old City reflects the cultural influences of the many empires that once ruled here. In the Sultanahmet district, Egyptian obelisks rise through the air and the Roman-era Hippodrome was the site of chariot races for centuries. The soaring dome of the 6th-century Byzantine masterpiece, the Hagia Sophia grand mosque, features rare Christian mosaics. Here is our guide to Istanbul, Turkey.
STAY
ÇIRAĞAN PALACE KEMPINSKI In a previous life, this grandiose property on the European side of the Bosphorus was a residence for sultans. In fact, it is set on Yıldız Par, the former royal hunting grounds. Today, it hosts heads of state and guests in the regal Palace suites whose vaulted ceilings whose elegant antiques and textiles evoke the opulence of the Ottoman Era. Restaurant Tug˘ra offers classic Turkish cuisine from the terrace. Yıldız, Çırağan Cd. No:32; kempinski.com/en/ciragan-palace
THE GRAND TARABYA Set along Tarabya Bay, with breathtaking views from the terraces all the way to the entrance of the Black Sea. The unique neighborhood is situated on a picturesque harbor with lively seafood restaurants, colorful scenery, and a new marina. Tarabya, Haydar Aliyev Cd. No:154; thegrandtarabya.com
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL ISTANBUL AT THE BOSPHORUS Set on the Bosphorus waterfront, this grand hotel is set in a 19th-century Ottoman palace. The property includes restaurants, bars, an indoor pool, and a spa. We especially love the outdoor bar come sundown. No:28, Çırağan Cd., 34349; fourseasons.com/bosphorus
SHANGRI-LA BOSPHORUS This romantic hotel overlooks the Bosphorus Strait, and includes an elegant Mediterranean and Chinese restaurant, a spa with a heated indoor pool, and a hammam. Sinanpaşa, Hayrettin İskelesi Sk. No:1; shangri-la.com/istanbul/shangrila
THE RITZ-CARLTON In a sleek glass skyscraper overlooking the Bosphorus Strait, this classic choice also offers a restaurant and rooftop cocktail bar, a spa with a hammam, and an indoor pool. Suzer Plaza Askerocagi Caddessi, Elmadağ Cd. No:6; ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/istrz-the-ritz-carlton-istanbul
HOTEL RAFFLES Set in an upmarket shopping and residential complex, this hotel has views of the Bosphorus Strait, as well as restaurants, bars, indoor and outdoor pools, a spa, and a helipad. Levazım, Vadi Cd Zorlu Center; raffles.com/istanbul
SOHO HOUSE Perhaps our favorite Soho House location, this members club and hotel is set in a charming 1873 neoclassical property with a terrace garden and multiple restaurants. Evliya Çelebi, Meşrutiyet Cd. No:56, 34430; sohohouse.com/en-us/houses/soho-house-istanbul
FAIRMONT QUASAR Overlooking the Bosphorus strait, some of the rooms at this hotel come with marble Turkish baths. Mecidiyeköy, Büyükdere Cd. No:76; fairmontquasaristanbul.com
EMPRESS ZOE A charming boutique hotel next to the Blue Mosque on a private archeological garden that borders the ruins of an ancient Turkish Bath House from 1483. Cankurtaran, Akbıyık Cd. No:10; emzoe.com/index
A'JIA HOTEL A traditional Ottoman mansion on the shores of the Bosphorus. Kanlıca Ahmet Rasim Paşa Yalısı, Halide Edip Adıvar Cd; ajiahotel.com/anasayfa
DINE | DRINK
LEB-I DERYA Sample traditional Turkish mezes paired with raki— a popular anise-flavored alcohol, called ‘lion’s milk.’ Şahkulu, Kumbaracı Ykş. No:57 Kat:5, 34425; endamistanbul.com
360 ISTANBUL Located on the top floor of a historic building in Taksim, offering stunning views of the city. Tomtom Mah. İstiklal Cad. No:163 K: 8; 360istanbul.com
KALE CAFÉ Order the full traditional kahvalti at the Rumelihisari— complete with feta cheese, simit bread, tapenade, jam, eggs, and Turkish coffee, of course. Yahya Kemal Caddesi No: 10 34470 Rumelihisarı; kalecafe.com
KARAKOY GULLUOGLU One of the oldest and best spots for baklava in Istanbul. Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa, Kemankeş Cd. No:67; karakoygulluoglu.com
CASITA CAFE Try Turkish manti (lamb stuffed dumplings) at this cafe in Bebek. Sinanpaşa Çelebi Oğlu Sokak No 13; casitacafe.com
GIRITLI Listen to live bands as you gaze downstream into the shimmering Sea of Marmara at this wood-clad, 19th-century restaurant. Cankurtaran, Yeni güvey sokak no:9; giritlirestoran.com
ISMET BABA RESTAURANT A wood-paneled restaurant in Kuzguncuk. Order the turbot if it’s season or the sea bass in lemon sauce. Kuzguncuk, Kuzguncuk Çarşı Cd No:1; ismetbaba.com.tr
MIDYELERIN EFENDISI A popular spot for mussels in Beşiktaş. midyeciahmet.com
NARDIS JAZZ CLUB Listen to live music from local and international acts at this atmospheric spot in Cihangir, led by Ankara-born jazz vocalist and Fulbright scholar, Ece Göksu. Bereketzade, Galata Kulesi Sk. No:8; nardisjazz.com
MIMAR SINAN TERAS CAFE Try Turkey’s unofficial national dish, kuru fasülye— white beans stewed in olive oil and tomato sauce, served with rice. Demirtaş Mah. Fetva Yokuşu No:34
NUSR-ET A chain of steakhouses by Nusret Gökç, perhaps better known by “Salt Bae”- a moniker given to him after his technique for salting steak became a viral meme. nusr-et.com.tr
HAMDI A restaurant near the Spice Bazaar by Hamdi Arpacı who started out as a street-food vendor in the 1960s. hamdi.com.tr
ASITANE An airy, refined restaurant with art-lined walls & patio tables serving traditional Turkish cuisine. Derviş Ali, Kariye Cami Sk. No:6; asitanerestaurant.com
SUR BALIK With four locations, Sur Balık is a popular seafood restaurant in the city. It also has branches in Ankara and Nevşehir. surbalik.com
SEVEN HILLS Next to the tourist-populated Hagia Sofia, duck into this nondescript hotel and restaurant for 360-degree views from the rooftop restaurant. sevenhillsrestaurant.com
MANGERIE Have breakfast with a Bosphorus view from this eatery in Bebek. Bebek, Cevdet Paşa Cd. No:69; mangeriebebek.com
ARTS | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
HAGIA SOPHIA The Aya Sofya Holy Grand Mosque was designed by the Greek geometers Isidore of Miletus and Anthemius of Tralles in 537 as a cathedral in Constantinople— at the time the largest Christian church of the Byzantine Empire. In 1453, after the Fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Empire, it was converted into a mosque. Sultan Ahmet, Ayasofya Meydanı No:1; ayasofyacamii.gov.tr
BLUE MOSQUE The Sultan Ahmed Mosque is an Ottoman-era functioning mosque constructed between 1609 and 1616 during the rule of Ahmed I. Visitors are provided with a pale blue headscarf and invited to enter and view the exquisite tilework. Binbirdirek, At Meydanı Cd No:10
TOPKAPI PALACE Also known as the Seraglio, a 15th-century Ottoman palace and municipal complex that served as the heart of the empire for 380 years. Royal gardens, peeling frescoes, and tiled mosaics are breathtaking in their beauty, but the zenith of any visit is a wander through the sultan’s harem, once home to hundreds of concubines and their eunuch guards. Cankurtaran; millisaraylar.gov.tr/saray-kosk-ve-kasirlar/topkapi-sarayi
DOLMABAHÇE PALACE Built by Sultan Abdulmecid in the late mid-nineteenth century, it is 45,000 square meters with 44 reception rooms, and sumptuous design details taken from eastern and western cultures ranging from Egyptian marble hammams to French day beds. Not surprisingly— the Palace’s construction lead to the bankruptcy of the Ottoman Empire. Vişnezade, Dolmabahçe Cd; millisaraylar.gov.tr/Lokasyon/3/Dolmabahce-Sarayi
BASILICA CISTERN The largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city. We also love its starring role in the James Bond film, From Russia With Love. Alemdar, Yerebatan Cd. 1/3; yerebatansarnici.com
ISTANBUL CARPET MUSEUM Located in the original Alm House for the Hagia Sofia, the museum is home to some of the greatest textile masterpieces from the 14th through 19th centuries. Foundations Regional Directorate Carpet Museum Sultanahmet Mosque, Alemdar; istanbul.ktb.gov.tr
GALATA TOWER Also called the Christea Turris by the Genoese, the tower is a medieval stone tower in the Karaköy quarter. Bereketzade, 34421; muze.gov.tr/muze-detay
SOGUKÇESME STREET A cobblestone street lined with 19th-century Ottoman row houses between the Hagia Sophia and the exterior courtyard walls of Topkapi Palace. Soğuk Çeşme Sk. Cankurtaran
SÜLEYMANIYE MOSQUE Not as ornate (or populated with tourists) as the Blue Mosque, but still impressive. It’s the second-largest imperial mosque in the city, built atop the third hill of Old Istanbul in the 16th century, by the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan at the behest of Suleiman the Magnificent. On your way out, visit the cemetery where the carvings atop each tombstone indicate that person’s station in life (a fez headdress was reserved for government officials, a turban for someone of the religious order, and an anchor for a seaman). Süleymaniye, Prof. Sıddık Sami Onar Cd. No:1
GALATA BRIDGE An important symbol of Istanbul spanning the Golden Horn with restaurants, cafes, and hookah lounges underneath. We recommend having a fresh fish snack at the end of the bridge, cooked in front of you. Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa, Galata Köprüsü
ORTAKOY MOSQUE The Grand Imperial Mosque in Ortakoy was the first baroque-designed mosque in the world. Mecidiye, 34347
RUMELI HISARI The Rumelian Castle Fortress was built in Ottoman Padishah Fatih Sultan Mehmed’s reign in 1452 in order to control the Bosphorus. Rumeli Hisarı, Yahya Kemal Cd; rumelihisarimuzesi.com.tr
PRINCES' ISLANDS Dotted with Victorian-era houses and free of motor vehicles— walk, bike, or take a horse-drawn carriage tour.
TAKSIM Istiklal Caddesi is a very long street in a vivid neighborhood with historic buildings. Stroll along French Street, filled with restaurants and wine bars. Continue on to Tunel and Asmalimescit and visit restaurants including Babylon, Vida Pera, Nu Teras.
ISTANBUL MUSEUM OF MODERN ART AT TOPHANE Istanbul Museum of Modern Art, colloquially referred to as Istanbul Modern, is a contemporary art gallery located inside the Galataport complex in the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul, Turkey. Don’t miss the spectacular view from the cafe! Kılıçali Paşa, Tophane İskele Cd. No:1/1; istanbulmodern.org
SABANCI MUSEUM AT EMIRGAN Also in Taksim close to the Rumeli Hisari, this museums has spectacular views— especially from the cafe. Emirgan, Sakıp Sabancı Cd. No:42; sakipsabancimuzesi.org
BOSPHORUS CRUISE TO THE BLACK SEA Whether you choose the Southern or Northern route, you’ll see unbelievable views of the city from the water including most of the attractions listed above and many more. It generally takes an hour and a half and starts either on Sirkeci (close to Sultanahmet) or Ortakoy.
AQUEDUCT OF VALENS The surviving ruins of a Roman aqueduct system built in the late 4th century AD, to supply Constantinople – the capital of the eastern Roman empire. Kalenderhane, 34083 Fatih/İstanbul
CAFERAĞA MADRASA The Caferağa Medrese or Cafer Ağa Madrasa is a former medrese next to the Hagia Sophia with workshops teaching traditional Turkish handicrafts. Caferiye Sokak, Soğukkuyu Çk. No:5; tkhv.org.tr
HIPPODROME The Hippodrome of Constantinople or Sultanahmet Square was a circus that was the sporting and social center of Constantinople, the capital of the Byzantine Empire. Today it is a square named Sultanahmet Meydanı with a few fragments of the original structure surviving. Sultan Ahmet Parkı No:2
SHOP
GRAND BAZAAR The Grand Bazaar used to be the center of Ottoman commerce, and purportedly the world’s first shopping mall. It lays on 80 streets and houses over 4,000 merchants selling silk, Turkish carpets, jewelry, colorful fabrics, lights, and trinkets. Pick up pastel striped peştemals at Dervis, copper cookware at Soy Türkiye, çini traditional Turkish pottery at Iznik Art, and ikat textiles at Yazzma. Beyazıt, 34126 F; kapalicarsi.com.tr
ORIENT HANDMADE CARPETS A spectacular showroom run by a fifth-generation Anatolian family. More than 14,000 carpets are spread across 27 rooms here. Molla Fenari, Ç. Nuruosmaniye Cd. No:68;
SALT GALATA An Ottoman bank turned multi-use space. Under one architecturally pleasing roof, you’ll find a tightly edited bookstore Robinson Crusoe 389, a communal café and research library stuffed with books about art, graphic design, and Turkish culture. The shopping continues along design-forward Serdar-ı Ekrem street. Look for kilim throw pillows and olive-wood serving trays at housewares shop Çiçek Işleri, and shearling-trimmed denim jackets and rose-tinted sunglasses at Baston Vint. Bey Karaköy for minimalist menswear, and the concept shop Mae Zae for handmade ceramics. Arap Cami, Bankalar Cd. No:11; saltonline.org
LEVAN This small jewelry boutique is full of precious handmade objects that the owner sources from all over Turkey. Han Geçidi Sokak No 3E - Hazzo Pulo Pasajı; shoplevan.com
MISIR ÇARSISI The sweet smell precedes the Egyptian Bazaar or Spice Market, filled with rows of Turkish delight vendors. Pick up potent vials of amber and rose oil at 72-year-old perfumery Istanbuli, and don’t forget to buy a bag of freshly ground Turkish coffee from Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, one of the oldest coffee shops in Istanbul. Rüstem Paşa, 3; misircarsisi.org.tr
A LA TURCA An antiques store in Çukurcuma in Beyoǧlu. Kuloğlu, Faik Paşa Cd. No:4; alaturcahouse.com
THE WORKS OBJECTS OF DESIRE “For the slightly deranged collector seeking identifiable memories.” The cluttered bric-a-brac shop provides artifacts for the conceptual vignettes displayed in the nearby Museum of Innocence, based on the namesake novel by Nobel Prize-winning Turkish author Orhan Pamuk who lived in the house before it was converted into a museum. Kuloğlu, Faik Paşa Cd. No:6 D:1
SPA
TURKISH BATHS You can’t visit Turkey without spending an afternoon at a traditional hammam. We suggest Çemberlitas, Süleymaniye, Haseki Hürrem Sultan, the 300-year-old white marble temple Cağaloğlu or Kiliç Ali Paşa Hamam—an architectural delight with its spectacular domed entrance, the result of a commission by an Ottoman admiral.
DAY & WEEKEND TRIPS
BODRUM Proclaimed by Homer as “the land of eternal blue,” this chic resort town in Southern Turkey is just an hour’s flight from Istanbul and has had a recent resurgence with a new breed of luxury hotels and restaurants. Stay at the recently opened Edition Hotel by Ian Schrager on picturesque Yalikavak Bay, complete with pool villas, Turkish hammams, and a private beach club. The Maçakizi Hotel is also a classic option, it occupies a prized spot in the inlet of Göltürkbükü, and offers a dockside restaurant and beach bar, which look out onto the stunning bay. Shop at Husna Sandals, the leather gladiators have been the sartorial emblem of Bodrum since 1966. Sail the Turkish Riviera with Zephyria Yachting on a legendary wooden Gulet boat, which travels the Aegean on what’s known as the blue voyage. Visit the remains of one of the original 7 wonders of the ancient world, the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, as well as St. Peter’s Castle, which holds ancient treasures uncovered from shipwrecks from the surrounding seas.
CAPPADOCIA An hour’s flight from Istanbul, the World Heritage Site is known for its distinctive “fairy chimneys,” tall, cone-shaped rock formations clustered in Monks Valley and Göreme— best seen from above in a colorful hot air balloon.
Photo: Suleymaniye Mosque, © Visit Istanbul.