New Orleans

Veronica Speck

“America has only three cities: New York, San Francisco, and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland.” -Tennessee Williams


Brunch at Brennan’s, Slim Aarons, 1960.

New Orleans is a Louisiana city on the Mississippi River, nicknamed the "Big Easy," known for its vibrant Bourbon St. nightlife, live jazz music and low-country cuisine reflecting its history as a melting pot of French, African, and American cultures. Embodying its festive spirit is Mardi Gras, the raucous carnival famed for its parades and street parties.


STAY

THE PONTCHARTRAIN Originally opened in the 1940s in the picturesque Garden District, this hotel has hosted the likes of Frank Sinatra and Rita Hayworth, and Tennessee Williams wrote A Streetcar Named Desire whilst staying here. Restored to its former glory by a multimillion-dollar renovation, this hotel now features comfortable rooms, a prime location on the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line, and a restaurant headed by local celebrity chef John Besh. Don’t miss live jazz at the Bayou Bar! 2031 St Charles Ave; thepontchartrainhotel.com

THE OLD NO. 77 HOTEL & CHANDLERY Mid-century-inflected design is a reflection of the contemporary South, but its hospitality and attention to detail are timeless. The building is conveniently located off Canal Street, and make sure to request one of the Artist Loft Suites—oversize rooms tastefully outfitted with works from local painters. 535 Tchoupitoulas St; old77hotel.com

THE BARNETT Located in the revitalized Warehouse District with a modern post-industrial design and 5 chic restaurants and bars. Other amenities include a rooftop pool, a 24-hour gym, and a retro photo booth. 600 Carondelet St; thebarnett.com

THE RITZ-CARLTON In the lively French Quarter, this is classic hotel includes a farm-to-table restaurant serving Southern-inspired fare, as well as a lounge with live music. 921 Canal St, New Orleans; ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/msyrz-the-ritz-carlton-new-orleans

MAISON MÉTIER Located in the warehouse district of New Orleans, this luxurious guesthouse is a private sanctuary replete with the quiet delights of Southern charm. Featuring original artwork and a chic lounge offering nightly wine-and-cheese receptions. 546 Carondelet St; maisonmetier.com

HOTEL PETER AND PAUL Located in the Marigny (the French Quarter’s quieter, calmer neighbor), this boutique property from Ash Hotels is set within a former Catholic church that was erected in the 19th century. The rooms (each individually decorated) stretch across three different historic buildings: the schoolhouse, the rectory, and the convent. This is no doubt an aesthete’s hotel—there are over 700 antiques throughout the expertly curated spaces as well as furnishings produced locally. From limestone clawfoot tubs, sumptuous canopy beds, and perfectly mismatched upholstery, a stay at Hotel Peter and Paul is right in step with what makes New Orleans a destination with distinction. 2317 Burgundy St; ash.world/hotels/peter-and-paul

THE CELESTINE For those naysayers who profess they’ll never stay overnight in the boisterous French Quarter, The Celestine has other plans for you. This new 10-room boutique hotel strikes a fetching balance between modern creature comforts and old world charm (think: antiques and four-poster beds puzzled together with Five Wits toiletries and a curated wet bar)—and the interior courtyard set to the gurgling tunes of its three-tier fountain offers a slowed-down pace to immerse in the old city. The building dates back to 1791 and was once the home of Antoine Amedee Peychaud (founder of Peychaud’s bitters, father of the Sazerac cocktail) and his wife, Celestine. Tennessee Williams also stayed here when he was working on A Streetcar Named Desire in the 1940s, and his former suite has been converted into the hotel’s lobby. While here, don’t miss out on Peychaud’s Bar where guests and passersby alike can enjoy a reserve cocktail dreamt up by Neal Bodenheimer from Cure Co. 727 Toulouse St; thecelestinenola.com

COLUMNS As with so many historic hotels in New Orleans, Columns has toggled through several previous lives—first as a private residence, then as a boarding house during World War I, and finally as a hotel (which is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places). Locals know and love Columns for its massive porch—which becomes particularly lively during weekend brunch—and the interiors retain that private residence feel for guests, from toile wallpaper and stone fireplaces to a mahogany staircase that climbs upwards to reveal a stained glass skylight. When you’re hungry (and thirsty), head for the bar (or garden) for a cocktail, followed by dinner at the restaurant helmed by executive chef Paul Terrebonne. 3811 St Charles Ave; thecolumns.com

THE CHLOE This 14-room boutique hotel tucked in the heart of the leafy Garden District is a refined respite brought to you by local hospitality veterans, LeBlanc + Smith. The first thing you’ll notice upon arrival is the structure—it’s housed within a 19th-century mansion that’s been painted a shadowy slate blue. Similarly, the walls in the interior public spaces are tinted in deep jewel tones and decorated with a textural mix of clever antiques and vintage objects. There’s an all-day restaurant with both indoor and outdoor seating (the focaccia with goat cheese and olive oil is nonnegotiable), a stylish lobby bar where you can pull up a stool or take your cocktail out onto the front porch, and out back, you’ll find a pool with an adjacent bar serving up small bites and tropical drinks. 4125 St Charles Ave; thechloenola.com

THE ROOSEVELT NEW ORLEANS, A WALDORF ASTORIA HOTEL A grand dame of New Orleans, this magnificent property opened its doors in 1893 as the Grunewal Hotel, eventually coming to bear its current moniker in honor of former president Theodore Roosevelt in 1923. Stepping into the gilded, block-long lobby with its soaring ceilings and 1867-era Eugène Farcot clock, guests are ushered back in time. Dive deeper into the hotel’s history with a visit to The Sazerac Bar, an iconic watering hole from the 1940s with well-preserved Art Deco design. Also not to be missed: the extensive salumi menu at the property’s Domenica restaurant, plus a bit of pampering at the Waldorf Astoria Spa (complete with a glass of welcome Champagne). 30 Roosevelt Way; hilton.com/en/hotels/msyrhwa-the-roosevelt-new-orleans

HOTEL HENRIETTA The first new-build hotel along St. Charles Avenue in the last several decades, Hotel Henrietta injects a fresh perspective to the Garden District, with rooms designed for both short and long-term stays. (The expansive suites are equipped with kitchenettes and can be combined for large groups.) The design leans into texture, color, and silhouette to shape the aesthetic, with details like velvet headboards, mosaic tiles, and wall coverings by French design legend Pierre Frey. There are balconies on every floor, plus a front porch equipped with fire pits and snug seating nooks (ideal for enjoying a post-dinner amaro from the lounge, which also serves coffee and Flour Moon bagels in the morning and small dishes all day). 3500 St Charles Ave; hotelhenrietta.com

HOTEL SAINT VINCENT Set in the Lower Garden District, this genteel hotel in an 1861 building has an all-day coastal Italian restaurant, a French/Vietnamese-style cafe and bakery, and a lobby lounge, plus a guest-only cocktail bar. There's also an outdoor heated pool and a poolside bar in an inner courtyard. 1507 Magazine St; saintvincentnola.com

DRINK | DINE

PÊCHE This James Beard Award-winning seafood restaurant preserves local cooking techniques— try the catfish and Louisiana shrimp roll. 800 Magazine St; pecherestaurant.com

SEAWORTHY The sister restaurant to New York’s Grand Banks, Seaworthy serves seafood dishes including briny oysters from Grand Bay, Alabama. 630 Carondelet St; seaworthynola.com

VESSEL A Mid-City restaurant located in a former church. Standout Southern seafood dishes include the Creole mussels and cast-iron octopus with black-eyed peas. 3835 Iberville St; vesselnola.com

N7 Located in Bywater, N7 is a neighborhood French restaurant and wine bar founded by filmmaker Aaron Walker and chef Yuki Yamaguchi, specializing in French cuisine infused with a Japanese touch. The restaurant is set amidst a garden previously home to a tire shop and stable for carriage horses. The natural wine menu is focused on small European, winemakers. The name is derived from Nationale 7 (N7), the highway that once ran from Paris to Italy known as the “Route des Vacances,” which vacationing Parisianers would take on their way South. Along the way, the Michelin Guide would direct them to the restaurants; hence the origin of the Michelin Star. 1117 Montegut St; n7nola.com

PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN A diner serving up the best po’boys in town according to Stirling Barrett, the founder of Krewe. 538 Hagan Ave; parkwaypoorboys.com

RESTAURANT R'EVOLUTION This restaurant boasts a 10,000-bottle wine cellar, but we come for the charcuterie boards and gnocchi. 777 Bienville St; revolutionnola.com

COCHON A lauded choice in charming, historic digs specializing in pork dishes & imaginative Cajun eats (and meats). Order the rabbit and dumplings! 930 Tchoupitoulas St Ste A; cochonrestaurant.com

BRENNAN’S The birthplace of Banana’s Foster with delicious gumbo, biscuits, and Oysters Rockefeller. 417 Royal St; brennansneworleans.com

EMERIL’S BAM! Chef Emeril Lagasse’s restaurant serves Southern classics including fried chicken and cauliflower mac & cheese. 800 Tchoupitoulas St; emerilsrestaurant.com

CAFE BEIGNET Order a basket of freshly baked, warm beignets coated in powdered sugar and enjoy them in the charming courtyard on Royal Street. cafebeignet.com

CAFE DU MONDE Quieu up at this renowned open-air coffee shop on Decatur Street in the French Quarter and order a basket of beignets with a chicory café au lait. shop.cafedumonde.com

COMMANDER’S PALACE A New Orleans institution since 1880. Order 25 cent Martinis at lunch and listen to jazz in this chandelier-hung space in the Garden District. 1403 Washington Ave; commanderspalace.com

BACCHANAL FINE WINE & SPIRITS A wine-&-cheese market and restaurant featuring small plates & live music on a lush back patio. 600 Poland Ave; bacchanalwine.com

ARNAUD’S Classic upscale restaurant & lounge featuring Creole cuisine, cocktails & Dixieland jazz since 1918. The best for brunch! 813 Bienville St; arnaudsrestaurant.com

CAROUSEL BAR This bar at the Hotel Monteleone revolves like a carousel. Have a sazerac and enjoy the ride. 214 Royal St; hotelmonteleone.com/entertainment/carousel-bar

JACQUES-IMOS A quirky, mural-lined hot spot luring locals & tourists alike in with its Creole soul food; expect a wait. 8324 Oak St; jacques-imos.com

PATOIS An airy, upscale spot serving locally sourced French & New American fare by lauded chef Aaron Burgau. 6078 Laurel St; patoisnola.com

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH BAR A dimly lit bar, one of the oldest around, serving drinks since the 1700s. 941 Bourbon St; lafittesblacksmithshop.com

HANSEN’S SNO-BALLS A family-owned sno-ball stand mainstay since 1939 that's famous for soft shaved ice & homemade syrups. 4801 Tchoupitoulas St; snobliz.square.site

MAHONY’S PO-BOYS The best po-boy sandwiches on Magazine Street. 3454 Magazine St; mahonyspoboys.com

STEIN’S DELI Delicious sandwiches on Magazine Street. 2207 Magazine St; steinsdeli.com

MILK BAR A popular lunch and sandwich spot. 710 S Carrollton Ave; themilkbarneworleans.com

SUPERIOR SEAFOOD A seafood restaurant on Saint Charles Street with Gulf Oysters. 4338 St Charles Ave; superiorseafoodnola.com

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE A microbrewery with a mean shrimp/oyster/catfish po-boy. If you're feeling adventurous, order the seafood cheesecake appetizer and a glass of Red Stallion. 527 Decatur St; crescentcitybrewhouse.com

SURREY’S UPTOWN Go for brunch and order the chicken and waffles. Les Bon Temps Rouler next door has the best Bloody Mary- spicy and filled with string beans, olives, celery, and tomatoes. 1418 Magazine St; surreysnola.com

LIL' DIZZY'S CAFE Creole gumbo, seafood platters, and po-boys. 1500 Esplanade Ave; lildizzyscafe.net

PAT O’BRIENS Home of the Hurricane. Order one to go and visit Marie Laveau's House Of Voodoo next door before sauntering down Bourbon Street. Tropical Isle next door has a famous (and strong) hand grenade cocktail. Perhaps drink one before singing karaoke at Cat's Meow. patobriens.com/new-orleans

MAISON A bar with a live jazz brass band in Marigny. Blue Nile, Hi-Ho Lounge, and Maple Leaf Bar (where Rebirth Brass band plays every Tuesday) also have live music. Mimi's in the Marigny, The Sazerac, Cure, Monkey Hill, and the Rusty Nail are other options. 508 Frenchmen St; maisonfrenchmen.com

REFUEL Locals line up for the eclectic breakfast at this quaint cafe with healthy options. 1501 S Norman C Francis Parkway

SATSUMA CAFE A coffeehouse with locally sourced food and a patio. satsumacafe.com

RUBY SLIPPER A cafe serving signature Eggs Benedict and Southern brunch fare. rubybrunch.com

GALATOIRE'S A fine-dining, century-old institution serving French-Creole fare in a jacket’s-required space. 209 Bourbon St; galatoires.com

DAT DOG A late-night spot serving up hot dogs. datdog.com

WILLIE MAE'S SCOTCH HOUSE A family-owned spot since 1957, famous for fried chicken & other soul food in a humble setting. 898 Baronne St; williemaesnola.com

COMPANY BURGER  Voted one of the best burgers in America. 4600 Freret St; thecompanyburger.com

GAUTREAU'S Intimate, secluded spot for sophisticated American-French cuisine, housed in a former pharmacy. 1728 Soniat St; gautreausrestaurant.com

LA PETITE GROCERY The place to try the New Orleans specialty, muffuletta, which originated among Italian immigrants, and consists of a sandwich containing sliced salami, ham, Swiss cheese, provolone, and mortadella. 4238 Magazine St; lapetitegrocery.com

ACME OYSTER HOUSE Order the char-grilled oysters on the half shell! 724 Iberville St, New Orleans; acmeoyster.com

CRESCENT CITY STEAKHOUSE Sizzling steaks in space from 1934. 1001 N Broad St; crescentcitysteaks.com

TABLEAU Classic French-Creole cooking served in an elegant 3-story townhouse with an open kitchen & balcony. 616 St Peter; tableaufrenchquarter.com

CAMELLIA GRILL Fabled institution for diner fare dished out by bow-tied servers, plus late-night dining. 626 S Carrollton Ave; camelliagrillnola.com

ACAMAYA Rightfully earning its position on The New York Times’s 2024 Best New Restaurants list, this seafood-driven Mexican spot in the Bywater neighborhood is in a league of its own. Co-owned by sisters and Mexico City natives Ana and Lydia Castro (the former a James Beard Award-nominated chef). 3070 Dauphine St; acamayanola.com

CANE AND TABLE Caribbean flavors meet Cuban heritage at this French Quarter mainstay that’s helmed by executive chef Alfredo Nogueira. The bar has been open for over a decade, but each visit offers something new thanks to its seasonal approach to ingredients. The cocktail menu is sensational (first-timers should get the classic Hurricane & Table). 1113 Decatur St; caneandtablenola.com

COPPER VINE This Central Business District indoor-outdoor gem is known for its well-curated wine list—some of which are served on tap—and sits within a three-story home dating back to the 1800s (it now operates as an 11-room inn and restaurant). 1001 Poydras St; coppervine.com

VERTI MARTE There’s no such thing as the best po’boy in the city—there are too many fine contenders, each offering their own standout style. While Liuzza’s by the Track, Domilise’s, and Parkway Bakery & Tavern are worthy shout-outs for this Louisiana classic, Verti Marte is an undeniable top pick. 1201 Royal St; vertimartenola.com

DAKAR This modern Senegalese tasting menu—which was named the best new restaurant in the country at the James Beard Awards this year—was born from Chef Serigne Mbaye’s memories of growing up in Senegal. Many of the courses are served family style (a nod to West African dining traditions) and the menu draws a focus on seafood and produce from local farmers in South Louisiana. The menu changes often, but expect highlights like soupe kandja, a Senegalese okra gumbo soup with gulf crab, palm oil, and Louisiana rice. 3814 Magazine St; dakarnola.com

TURKEY AND THE WOLF Named America’s Best New Restaurant by Bon Appetit in 2017, this humble sandwich shop continues to live up to its accolades. Hopefully you’re not on a diet: the fried bologna—which includes potato chips inside the sandwich—is a must-order, as is the frozen margarita, which is prepared with Cointreau, squirt, and Mountain Dew. 739 Jackson Ave; turkeyandthewolf.com

PEACOCK ROOM The first thing you’ll notice at this cocktail bar tucked inside Kimpton Hotel Fontenot is the striking shade of blue-green, stretching from ceiling to floor. The menu emphasizes tipples that offer light and floral notes (think: Japanese gin paired with coriander, mint, lime, and jalapeño), which can be enjoyed on one of their many live music nights. 501 Tchoupitoulas St; peacockroomnola.com

PALADAR 511 For a fuss-free, reliably good Italian meal, Paladar 511 is a go-to spot in the Marigny. It’s great for pizza and pasta (especially the squid ink spaghetti) and its close proximity to Frenchmen Street makes it all too easy for your group to drift from a hearty dinner to live jazz. 511 Marigny St; paladar511.com

DOOKY CHASE Everyone from Duke Ellington and Ray Charles to Beyoncé and Barack Obama have eaten at this quintessential New Orleans restaurant, which has been in operation since 1941. Often called the “Queen of Creole Cuisine,” Leah Chase (who was Dooky Chase Jr.’s wife) introduced dishes such as Gumbo des Hermes, fried chicken, and the Creole red style of jambalaya, among many others. She also established the restaurant as a safe haven throughout the civil rights movement, and in her lifetime supported Black artists by displaying their work, eventually creating one of the city’s first galleries dedicated to African American art. 2301 Orleans Ave; dookychaserestaurants.com

FIVES Right in the heart of Jackson Square yet somehow hidden in plain sight, this new raw bar is one of the most exciting recent openings in the French Quarter. Fives is in a National Historic Landmark building that dates back to 1851, and the design centers around a wooden horseshoe-shaped bar installed beneath a striking antique chandelier. It’s the kind of peaceful spot you can quickly pop into for a half dozen oysters and a glass of bubbles… but find yourself lingering around for the beef tartare and curated martini menu. 529 St Ann St; fives.bar

SYLVAIN Sylvain is a low-key (but reliably good) Southern bistro in the French Quarter that serves up crowd favorites like cast iron cornbread, slow-cooked short rib, Champagne, and French Fries. 625 Chartres St; sylvainnola.com

JEWEL OF THE SOUTH When you’re in the mood for a thoughtful, well-crafted beverage, head to Jewel of the South. This James Beard Award winner and America’s 50 Best destination is a worthy stop on any New Orleans cocktail crawl, coupling classic techniques with seasonal flavors. 1026 St Louis St; jewelnola.com

AYU BAKEHOUSE Well designed and flooded with natural light, and stocked with heavenly pastries, the Ayu Bakehouse team has made a major splash since opening in 2022. This Marigny bakery is helmed by Breads Bakery alumni Kelly Jacques and Samantha Weiss, and offers a menu told through the lens of their upbringings—expect muffuletta breadsticks and chocolate babka knots placed beside Pandan-infused coconut buns (a nod to Jacques’s Southeast Asian heritage). Also a must: the jalapeño cookie, which pairs well with the chai latte made in-house. 801 Frenchmen St; ayubakehouse.com

MANOLITO For those muggy New Orleans days when all you want is to stroll around town, frozen beverage in hand, head for Manolito tucked away on Dumaine Street, and order one of their popular daiquiris (to go). 508 Dumaine St; manolitonola.com

NAPOLEON HOUSE Known and adored for both their warm muffulettas and refreshing Pimm’s Cup, Napoleon House is always worth a pitstop. It sits within a 1791-era building that was once inhabited by the mayor of New Orleans, and would go on to become a restaurant and bar by the Impastato family who emigrated from the Sicilian town of Cinisi. 500 Chartres St; napoleonhouse.com

MISTER MAO Told through the lens of Latin, Southeast Asian, Indian, and other global flavors, the culinary narrative of Mister Mao is one that’s eclectic, lively, and unapologetically fun. The restaurant—decorated in the spirit of the tropics—is led by Chef Sophina Uong (who is Cambodian-American) and dishes range from an Indonesian fruit salad to addictive garlic noodles. 4501 Tchoupitoulas St; mistermaonola.com

ERIN ROSE Though it’s closer to the cacophony of Bourbon Street than we’d prefer to be, the frozen Irish coffee at Erin Rose is entirely worth shimmying your way past the beaded crowds for this refreshing pick-me-up. 811 Conti St; erinrosebar.com

BAYOU BAR Wood-lined cocktail lounge & whiskey bar with live music, updated pub fare & Creole classics. 2031 St Charles Ave,; bayoubarneworleans.com

ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM A military history museum home to the LCVP, or Higgins boat, the landing craft that brought US soldiers to shore. 945 Magazine St; nationalww2museum.org

AUDUBON INSTITUTE A nonprofit with a local zoo, aquarium, and park dedicated to preserving and celebrating nature. 6500 Magazine St; audubonnatureinstitute.org

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART Located in the Warehouse Arts District downtown, holding the largest and most comprehensive collection of Southern art. 925 Camp St; ogdenmuseum.org

PRESERVATION HALL A must visit jazz venue in the French Quarter with a house band, a record label, and a non-profit foundation. Book in advance. 726 St Peter; preservationhall.com

CITY PARK Botanical gardens, mini-golf, paddle boats, and Morning Call cafe with beignets. neworleanscitypark.org

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART The oldest fine arts museum in New Orleans within City Park. 1 Collins Diboll Cir; noma.org

VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOUR Learn all about New Orleans haunted past on this walking tour, focusing around Voodoo. 701 Royal St

LAFAYETTE CEMETERY Kill time here (no pun intended) while waiting for your brunch reservation at Commander’s Palace across the street. Lafayette is a historic cemetery in the Garden District founded in 1833. 1427 Washington Ave; nola.gov

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ DAYTIME JAZZ CRUISE Twice daily Harbor Jazz Cruise on the authentic Steamboat Natchez. steamboatnatchez.com

LONGUE VUE PLANTATION Longue Vue House and Gardens is the former home of Edgar Stern and Edith Rosenwald Stern, and now a historic house museum. 7 Bamboo Rd; longuevue.com

BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Learn all about the origins of Mardis Gras at this museum. 1531 St Philip St; backstreetmuseum.org

SWAMP TOUR Hop aboard a flat-bottomed boat with Cajun Encounters to glide through the wild Honey Island Swamp. The company arranges pick-ups and drop-offs from several points throughout New Orleans and it takes about an hour to arrive in gator territory. If you’re feeling a tad devil may care, you can also book a kayak tour through this striking marshland. 930 Poydras St #1106; tourbigeasy.com

CONGO SQUARE Often cited as the birthplace of jazz, this open space in the southern corner of Louis Armstrong Park is the site where enslaved people of color gathered on Sunday afternoons during the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s here that enslaved Africans drummed, danced, sang, and traded, with some of these gatherings numbering as many as 500 to 600 people. Born from these cultural expressions gradually came Mardi Gras Indian traditions, the Second Line, and eventually New Orleans jazz as we know it today. 701 N Rampart St

ST. CHARLES STREETCAR Often billed as the best way to see the city, New Orleans streetcars are as charming as they are convenient. If you have a free morning, grab a latte and pastry from Lagniappe Bakehouse & Coffee and hop on the St. Charles Streetcar to ride up its namesake avenue to admire the architecture and historic Oak trees. norta.com

MARIGNY OPERA HOUSE Formerly a 19th-century church, this opera house is now a striking performing arts venue in the Marigny. 725 St Ferdinand St; marignyoperahouse.org

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This is a museum, research center, and publisher that was founded in the 1960s and tells the story of New Orleans and the Gulf South through exhibitions, original texts, and its public research center. It’s located in the French Quarter and is free to the public. 520 Royal St; hnoc.org

OLD URSULINE CONVENT MUSEUM Housed in the oldest building in the Mississippi River Valley and one of the few remaining structures built during the French rule (reminder: most buildings in the French Quarter were constructed during the Spanish occupation), this convent was completed in 1752 and offers a fascinating look back in time through the lens of the Ursuline nuns who braved a five-month voyage on the Atlantic Ocean to run a hospital and educate young girls. 112 Chartres St; oldursulineconventmuseum.com

JAZZ It would be sacrilegious to visit New Orleans and skip out on jazz. But where to begin? Frenchmen Street is always a strong bet—walk along the three short blocks and go where your ears take you (Snug Harbor, The Spotted Cat, and Blue Nile are all solid picks).

COUTURIE FOREST While the sculpture garden in City Park is indeed well worth a visit, for an off-the-beaten-path experience, head for Couturie Forest on the northern side of the park. This hidden gem offers several walking trails that wind through wetlands and woodlands, which are especially hospitable to birders (it’s considered the city’s top bird-watching destination). 1009 Harrison Ave; neworleanscitypark.org

NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This strange (and at times, macabre) collection of artifacts pertaining to the history of pharmacy and medicine sits within a classic Creole townhouse in the French Quarter. Step inside and you’ll be immediately transported back to the 19th and early 20th century, surrounded by old stethoscopes, opium bottles, and even irradiated face powder. 514 Chartres St; pharmacymuseum.org

BAYOU ST. JOHN Rent a stand-up paddleboard or go on a kayak tour on Bayou St. John for a view of this historic neighborhood from one of the city’s most historic waterways. Keep an eye out for turtles and Egrets, and sneak a peek at Park Island—a little-known area with mid-century modern architecture like the famed Ashtray House.

SHOP

KREWE New Orleans founded an independent eyewear company with a backyard garden. krewe.com

FRENCHMEN STREET ART MARKET A destination for handmade New Orleans art. frenchmenartmarket.com

BYRDIES Pick up a handcrafted mug or bowl from this ceramic studio located in the Marigny neighborhood. Birdie’s is a 501(c)(3) non-profit and offers classes, membership, and—lucky for all of us—a storefront shop where members can sell their handmade goods. 936 St Roch Ave; byrdiespottery.org

PILOT AND POWELL Since opening their doors in 2016, Pilot & Powell co-owners Kathryn Bullock Joyner and Coeli Hilferty Boron have been Nola’s resource for approachable luxury. Harmoniously blending brands like Totême, Bernadette, and Rochas. 3901 Magazine St; pilotandpowell.com

SUNDAY BEST Located within the former convent at Hotel Peter and Paul, this petite shop offers a fun mix of vintage clothes, stylish giftables, artisan jewelry, home goods, and more. Iris 1956 Founder Candias Smith curated the assortment and it even includes items from the hotel, including the robes, bath line, and custom candles. 2317 Burgundy St; ash.world/enjoy/sunday-best

CENTURY GIRL VINTAGE Die-hard vintage enthusiasts shouldn’t miss out on this Lower Garden District shop, which sources rare garments from several eras in fashion all around the world (everything from ethereal 1930s chiffon gowns to Moschino and Miu Miu). The owner modeled her brick-and-mortar after the great boutiques and salons of Paris. 2023 Magazine St; centurygirlvintage.com

BYGEORGE NEW ORLEANS Nestled within Hotel Saint Vincent, this Austin fashion and lifestyle boutique translates its cool girl sensibilities to the Big Easy with a selection of standout labels such as Loewe, Dries Van Noten, and Christopher John Rogers. 1507 Magazine St; bygeorgeneworleans.com

LUCULLUS ANTIQUES Head for Kentucky Street in the Bywater for this “unusual New Orleans culinary antiques shop” hawking everything from gorgeous copper cookware to brass bar carts. 915 Kentucky St; lucullusantiques.com

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