Patmos
Patmos, nicknamed Greece's "holy island," is a small but significant island in the Dodecanese, centered around the fortified Monastery of Saint John the Theologian, where Saint John is believed to have written the Book of Revelation. Strict building regulations and UNESCO protection over its hilltop capital, Chora, have kept the island free of overdevelopment, preserving its whitewashed Byzantine architecture and unhurried pace of life. Since the 1960s it has quietly drawn artists, jewelers, and design types who return year after year, and its atmosphere remains soulful rather than showy — pebbled coves, fig and olive groves, and buzzy beach tavernas standing in for velvet ropes and mega-yachts. Here is our guide to Patmos, Greece.
STAY
PATMOS AKTIS SUITES & SPA
The largest and most traditional hotel on the island, opened in 2011 on the beach in Grikos with a cool, minimalist style, all the amenities of a luxury resort, and an award-winning restaurant, Apocalypsis, serving Greek dishes with a modern twist. Grikos Bay; marriott.com
EIRINI LUXURY HOTEL VILLAS
A settlement of stone cottages, or arhontikas, built by mason Christos Kamitsis at Sapsila and named after his wife — lovely one- and two-bedroom houses, some with their own pools and sea views, echoing the mansions of Chora whose spare furniture he salvaged. Sapsila; eirinivillas.gr/en
PETRA HOTEL AND SUITES
A simple, elegant 11-room property in Grikos, run by Petra and Kostas Stergiou and their son Christos, who also founded the specialist travel company True Greece. Grikos
PATMOS PARADISE HOTEL
An adorable, almost Positano-like complex on the edge of Kampos Beach, with most balconies facing the harbor — remote enough to feel away from Skala's noise, with good waterfront tavernas within walking distance. Kampos Beach
PAGOSTAS
A beautifully restored three-bedroom guesthouse built in 1597, in the heart of Chora. Opened in 2022 by Rainbowwave and Mouki Mou founder Maria Lemos and her husband Gregoris Kambouroglou, its thoughtful restoration and warm Greek hospitality make a stay here feel intimate and luxurious. Chora; pagostas.com
PATMOS 360
A portfolio of three historic mansions in Chora carefully restored by architect Katerina Tsigarida and run today by her children: Stefania Mansion, Forno Majore, and Forno Annex, each preserving original features like a 19th-century masonry oven and a well still used as the estate's water supply. Chora
PATMOS HERITAGE
A collection of historic mansions in Chora personally restored by founder Dimitrios Soutsos, including Xanthos (once home to a founder of the secret society that led the Greek Independence), Themeli, and Economou, the monastery's former financial residence. A traditional sailboat is also available for weekly rental. Chora; patmosheritage.com
ONAR
Named after the Greek word for "dream," this cabana-style hotel near the fishing village of Grikos offers six serene stone houses around a communal saltwater pool, with an almost-private beach out front and no road noise to interrupt the quiet. Grikos; instagram.com/onarpatmos
HOTEL GOLDEN SUN
A humble, family-run hotel with 24 simple rooms, each with a balcony overlooking Grikos Bay, and a pool for lazy afternoons. Grikos Bay; goldensunresortspa.com
PANDORA – THE THINKING TRAVELLER
A classic Patmian villa set across three traditional levels in the heart of Chora, accommodating up to nine guests, with a rooftop terrace made for sunset drinks above the Monastery of St. John. Chora; thethinkingtraveller.com
DINE | DRINK
ÉLA
A farm-to-table restaurant and natural wine bar on 2.5 acres of once-degraded land transformed by Will Sapp and Tess Gruenberg, between Kampos and Lampi beaches. Open June through September. Between Kampos and Lampi; instagram.com/ela.patmos
PANTHEON
A taverna in Chora widely known as "the octopus place" thanks to the octopuses hanging outside — standout dishes include the lentil salad, homemade meatballs, and classic Greek mezze served with real warmth. Chora's main square
VANGELIS TAVERN
Run by the same family for four generations, on the "Plateia" main square of Chora where all the island's characters gather at night — unbeatable for people-watching over Greek fusion cuisine with a contemporary touch. Chora's main square; vangelistavern.com
BENETOS RESTAURANT
A Patmos institution on the shore near Skala, co-owned by an American and her Patmian chef husband, with much of the menu sourced from local waters and their own vegetable farm. The lobster pasta, sea-urchin salad, and tomato risotto are all superb. Sapsila; benetosrestaurant.com
PANTELIS
Worth borrowing a boat for: this seasonal dockside restaurant on tiny Marathi Island, eight nautical miles east of Patmos, has been run by the same welcoming family since 1978 and serves some of the best seafood in the Dodecanese. It doubles as a tiny, no-frills hotel, and lingering over a long lunch here means watching billionaires moor their yachts and dinghy in for the afternoon. Marathi Island
KOUKOUMAVLA
One of the most beautiful bars on Patmos, with a small secret garden — recently passed from its longtime husband-and-wife owners to a devoted regular who keeps the cocktails coming. Skala
THALAMI
A small cocktail bar on Chora's main square where owner and barman Giorgos mixes drinks according to his mood — always good, and a relaxed, convivial spot for a pre-dinner aperitif or nightcap. Chora; instagram.com/thalami_patmos
LIGINOU BAY SHACK
An unnamed shack at the top of Liginou Bay with sweeping views to the beaches below — some say the moussaka here is the best in Greece.
BENETOS CAFÉ
The sister café in Chora, with breathtaking views over Skala and one of the island's best brunch menus — try the avocado toast with poached eggs and a freshly made juice. Chora
FLISVOS RESTAURANT
Perched on a hill in Grikos bay and family-run, with live music and impromptu singing on Saturdays — ideal for full-moon nights with a direct view of the moon rising over the sea. Grikos Bay
DIAKOFTÓ TAVERNA
A simple, relaxed waterfront taverna strung with fairy lights, full of character and perfect for a casual dinner as the sun sets. Diakofti beach
KTIMA PETRA
A family-run taverna a short walk from Petra beach, with much of its produce grown in the greenhouse and vegetable garden beside the restaurant. Between Grikos and Petra; patmos-island.com
FISH TAVERN LAMPI (PANDELIS)
A classic seaside taverna steps from the sea on Lampi's pebbled beach, known for fresh fish, lobster, and grilled meats, much of it from their own garden. Lampi Beach; pantelis.patmos.eu
PSILI AMMOS TAVERN
Tucked under tamarisk trees on one of the island's most remote beaches — come for the seafood and the roasted goat, which often sells out by lunchtime. Psili Ammos Beach; psili-ammos.gr
LIVADI KALOGIRON
A tiny, cash-only canteen on a quiet beach in the north — go at sunset for a cold beer and simple, satisfying plates. Livadi ton Kalogira beach; instagram.com/livadi_kalogiron_kantina
CHRISTODOULOS CONFECTIONERY
A Skala institution for traditional Patmian sweets like Pougi and cheese pies, plus cakes and homemade ice cream. Skala; patmos-island.com
ARION CAFÉ
Right on the waterfront in Skala, perfect for a Greek coffee and light breakfast while watching the fishing boats and ferries come and go. Skala; arionpatmos.gr
ATMOS
A relaxed beachfront restaurant on Kampos Beach with an excellent Mediterranean menu and refreshing cocktails. Kampos Beach; atmospatmos.com
TREHANTIRI TAVERNA
Where the locals go to feast on seafood served in generous portions, at the port in Skala. Skala
TARSANAS
Fresh fish right by the harbor, with the waves practically lapping at your table.
TRYPAS (on Arki island)
Order the cheese-and-onion pies and the chocolate dessert at this magical spot with some of the best swimming coves on nearby Arki island, known only to locals.
MANOLIS (on Marathi island)
A little bar on Marathi serving a deliciously spicy margarita.
AETHERION
Right on the Skala waterfront, a mellow spot for a coffee frappé or avocado breakfast while watching boats drift in and out. Skala; instagram.com/aetherionpatmos
FISH TAVERN LAMPI (PANDELIS)
A classic seaside taverna steps from the sea on Lampi's pebbled beach, known for fresh fish, lobster, and grilled meats — much of it from their own garden. After a swim at Lampi, there's nowhere better for simply grilled fish, octopus, and a traditional Greek salad, still in your swimsuit. Lampi Beach; pantelis.patmos.eu
HOUSTON
A beautifully preserved traditional kafeneio at the port in Skala, opposite the old fountain in the central square, named in 1955 by the Karali family for the Patmian Brotherhood their father founded in Houston, Texas, during 45 years as an immigrant there. Pink-and-bright-green oil paints, elderly regulars, and an unmistakably old-world atmosphere — The World of Interiors once dedicated an entire issue to it. Skala
PETRINO
The central spot in Skala's plaza to see and be seen, with fast, friendly service, good coffee, and a cheerful evening vibe under the trees. Excellent for breakfast and brunch, with new menu additions signed by Chef Moutsopoulos, and equally good for a mojito once the sun goes down. Skala
DILAILA
A bohemian restaurant right on Katsadia Bay in Lipsi, decorated with vinyl records, driftwood, and hanging ribbons, with seafood caught in local waters, meat from area farms, and herbs from its own garden — a sign reading "No Fastfood" hangs over the entrance. Worth the day trip across from Patmos, and worth staying for a full-moon party if the timing lines up. Katsadia Bay, Lipsi
PANTELIS (MARATHI)
A seasonal dockside taverna on tiny Marathi Island, run by the same family since 1978 — order the fresh seafood and settle in, since lunch here has a way of stretching into the whole afternoon. Marathi Island; instagram.com/pantelis_marathi
CHORA AT NIGHT
Half the point of an evening in Patmos is simply wandering Chora's alleys after dinner and seeing where everyone ends up. Chora
KASBAH
Not everyone's scene, but this is where the younger crowd ends up dancing until close to sunrise. Skala
TO KYMA A charming seafood restaurant tucked into a small private cove right by the water in Aspri, with a magical view of Chora and the Monastery of St. John lit up across the bay. Mediterranean cuisine built on fresh Aegean fish and vegetables from local gardens, backed by a carefully chosen list of Greek wines — the lobster linguini and vongole are standouts. Reservations recommended. Aspri, Patmos; kymapatmos.gr
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
MONASTERY OF SAINT JOHN THE THEOLOGIAN
A fortified 11th-century Byzantine monastery founded by Ioannis Christodoulos, raised from the ruins of a Christian basilica and a temple to Artemis. Inside are embroidered and jeweled tributes from across the world, an El Greco icon, visionary frescoes, and marble floors worn down by centuries of monks. Its library holds one of the most important manuscript collections in the eastern Mediterranean; special permission grants access. Chora
CAVE OF THE APOCALYPSE
The candle-lit fissure in the rock where St. John is said to have dictated the Book of Revelation to his scribe, guarded by a black-robed monk. A quiet, reflective place — hard to square with the horrors John described here. There's a tiny gift shop selling incense, a fitting souvenir.
SIMANDIRIS HOUSE (ARXONTIKO SIMANTIRI)
Dating to 1625, the oldest grand home in Chora, which paints a picture of the island's noble prosperity — 90-year-old owner Mrs. Simandiris will show you around herself.
MONASTERY OF THE ANNUNCIATION (EVANGELISMOS)
A living women's monastery on the island's western side overlooking the valley of Kipoi and the Aegean sunset, where more than forty nuns sustain a quiet, self-sufficient life amid stone arcades and terraced gardens.
NIKOLAIDIS MANSION MUSEUM
A 17th- and 18th-century house museum with a permanent exhibition of archaeological finds and photographic archives, and a fine example of traditional Patmos architecture, down to its bottle-shaped water cisterns.
ANDREAS KALANTZIS GALLERY
A resident artist trained in iconography, transformed into contemporary art, who showcases his own work alongside other Greek and local Patmos artists. Chora
PATOINOS WINERY
The only winery in Patmos, built on the land of a monastery, producing wine from a variety of Greek grapes.
PATMOS MARINE (TARSANAS)
One of a handful of surviving traditional shipyards in Greece, run by Sozon Kamitsis, who has also built the island's first traditional all-electric solar boat.
CHORA
The island's hilltop capital, a protected UNESCO site of intricately embroidered mansions behind modest doors, radiating out in labyrinthine passageways from the monastery. Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan bought a house here in the late 1960s, kicking off a summer migration of artists and aristocrats that continues today.
THE PLATEIA (AGIA LEVIES SQUARE)
Chora's cramped stone square for eating, drinking, and socializing late into the night — home to two restaurants and a scattering of feeder bars that become, in summer, a de facto social club for wealthy vacationers and longtime residents (expect a lot of white linen).
PROFITIS ILIAS
The highest point on Patmos, with a tiny chapel at the summit and the island's best sunset views — arrange a sundowner up here through a local villa agency.
PETRA BEACH
A calm pebbled beach near Grikos with crystal-clear water — rent a wooden sun bed beneath a straw canopy or lay a towel on the smooth stones.
PSILI AMMOS BEACH
The island's only truly sandy beach, reached by a rigorous 40-minute hike or by boat — one of Patmos's most beautiful and remote spots.
LAMPI BEACH
Renowned for its multicolored pebbles of near-painterly intricacy — "Chagall! Matisse! Pollock!", as one visitor put it — with a taverna famed for its fried cheese.
VAGIA / VAGHIA BEACH
A tranquil, wind-protected, unserviced bay of tiny multicolored pebbles just over the hill from Kampos — colder water than the south-side beaches, but far less crowded.
GRIKOS BAY
A peaceful spot with a concrete jetty and small pebbled beach, ideal for sunbathing and dipping into the bay's sheltered waters.
LIVADI GERANOU
A tree-lined beach offering welcome shade from the summer sun, with a small seaside taverna serving simple Greek dishes.
BOAT TRIP TO ARKI, MARATHI & LIPSI
Take a wooden caique to the neighboring islands of Arki and Marathi — Arki has magical swimming spots only locals know about, and Marathi has its own tiny dockside institution in Pantelis. Further out, Lipsi is a castaway, boat-only island of its own, with the sheltered family beach of Lientou, the long uninterrupted coast of Kambos, and the turquoise curve of Platis Gialos, plus a small but thriving wine scene and the 1600-built church of Panagia tou Harou.
SHOP
ZAFIRIA
Run by sisters Zafiria and Nektaria in Chora's central square, with a beautifully curated selection of clothing, accessories, and home objects. Chora; instagram.com/zafiriashop_patmos
TARA
A thoughtful edit of contemporary Greek designers in Skala. Skala; instagram.com/tarapatmos
SHOPPING IN SKALA
A furious, charming jumble of novelty T-shirt shops, expensive jewelry stores, and motorbike rental counters — the type of churn worth diving into after lazy days at the beach. Moto Rent Express, opposite the post office, is the reliable pick for scooters.
A&Ω JEWELLERY
A Chora shop for unique pieces of jewelry, especially known for its etchings on glass. Chora
KATERINA MOURATI
A painter who discovered her artistic talent on Patmos at 20, now co-creating hand-sewn earrings and cuffs using an old traditional Patmian stitching method known to only a few.
NEKTAR
A curated shop of Greek delicacies — Patmian muscat wine, flower water, herbs, oils, and natural skincare.
MONASTERY OF ST. JOHN SHOP
The small shop at the monastery sells pure beeswax taper candles with a wonderful scent. Chora
PATMOS ICONS & PATMOS CERAMICS
Exquisite hand-painted Byzantine icons made using traditional techniques, alongside ceramics inspired by the island's understated aesthetic.
DAY TRIPS
BOAT TRIP TO ARKI, MARATHI & LIPSI
Take a wooden caique to the neighboring islands of Arki and Marathi — Arki has magical swimming spots only locals know about. Further afield, the island of Leros makes for a full day trip; Mylos by the Sea in Agia Marina is worth the detour, a family-run seafood restaurant open since 2000 with a terrace cocktail bar looking out on a traditional windmill and the Aegean. Agia Marina, Leros; mylosbythesea.com